Charit Creek Lodge
Charit Creek Lodge – May 2019
31
MAY, 2019
A visit to Charit Creek Lodge in the backcountry of the Big South Fork River National Recreational Area is like a journey back in time. The experience is very much like going back into the 1800’s, before electricity, light bulbs, furnaces, air conditioning, and cell phones. But a visit here isn’t suffering, it is pure luxury on many levels. There is running water, hot showers, comfortable beds, and gourmet meals included as part of the room package. It is a must visit destination for anyone seeking a unique, and luxurious, backcountry experience.
Discovering Charit Creek Lodge in 2015
I came upon the Charit Creek Lodge when researching my first Big South Fork hike in 2015. I was traveling with my two Labs, so the dog-friendly aspect caught my attention, but the guest reviews sealed it for me. Guest after guest raved about this ‘magical’ place and talked about a unique ‘time travel’-like experience.
“Charit Creek Lodge is so perfectly wonderful that I’m reluctant to share because I want to keep this little slice of heaven a secret. It is a very special place with an incredibly kind and attentive team, excellent food and a sense of community that is genuinely welcoming” – Guest Review
Charit Creek Lodge is in the backcountry – hiking is required
I need to emphasize that the Charit Creek Lodge is in the backcountry of Big South Fork. A visit there will require some hiking. Not much, really – about a mile from two different trailheads. But both trails to the Lodge are memorably steep. Heading to the lodge from your car will be pretty straightforward. It’s all downhill from either trailhead. But after gorging on a gourmet breakfast, the climb up in the morning typically results in a bit of grumbling.
The beauty of Charit Creek Lodge is that it sits right on the extensive backcountry trail system winding throughout Big South Fork. The lodge can be used as a luxurious multi-day base camp for day hikes. Or perhaps a destination along the way on a multi-day backpacking trip. Maybe even as multiple nights sprinkled throughout a more extended backpacking trip. Of course, you can do what many do and use it as an exceptional overnight destination in itself. I have now visited Charit Creek Lodge three times. My last visit was the last night of our June 2019 Big South Fork hike. Each visit has been better than the last.
Options for lodging
There are multiple options for lodging at Charit Creek Lodge, accomodating a wide range of preferences and group sizes. Two attached ‘cabins’ are within the main Lodge building (just separate, private rooms). The Lodge cabins are isolated from the main dining area and other Lodge rooms but do have access to the enormous screen-in porch. The porch stretches the entire length of the Lodge in the back. Two detached cabins are located behind the main Lodge building in a tranquil setting next to a stream. I stayed in the cabin on the right during my 2015 South Fork hike, and it was awesome. There are multiple bunk beds accomodating ten people and a back porch with rocking chairs overlooking the stream. The cabin also has a fire ring, firewood provided, and a picnic table next to the cabin.
Finally, the ‘Corn Crib’ is a more recent addition to the Charit Creek Lodge lodging options. It is a smaller detached cabin that sits directly behind the main lodge building. I’ve stayed in both the attached and detached cabins – both great – but I’ve never stayed in the Corn Crib. I’m guessing it provides the same level of comfort.
The shower and kitchen buildings – Hot showers and beer!
One of the great joys I have at Charit Creek, and one of the more relaxing things you’ll ever experience, is grabbing an IPA from the kitchen building and sipping it while sitting in a rocking chair on the large, covered porch that sits just feet away on the outside of the main Lodge building. As we’re hiking the final miles to Charit at the completion of a hike, it is the ‘porch time’ that occupies our thoughts.
There are two other buildings worth mentioning. At the top of a hill above the main Lodge is the bathroom/shower building. I can’t even begin to say how nice it is to have access to a hot shower during a backpacking trip! There is also a bathroom with flush toilets. The other building is the kitchen building. This is where all the food is prepared and is a ‘pub’ of sorts. The Lodge now sells a variety of beers, wine, soft drinks, and snacks.
Gourmet Meals – The best thing about Charit Creek Lodge
Capping off the Charit Creek Lodge experience is the food. A room for the night at Charit includes both breakfast and dinner. All meals at the Charit Creek Lodge are made from scratch by the Proprietor, Gregg, a talented and creative chef. The food is served family-style and is consistently excellent. I’ve stayed at the Charit Creek Lodge on three different trips and can say that the breakfast menu has been pretty consistent. The breakfast menu is eggs, bacon, sausage, bread or pastries, juice, and coffee. Dinner has been different each time but consists of protein, pasta, veggies, rolls, and cold drinks. Don’t expect endless helpings. There was ample food, but one serving of each item only.
The Lodge proprietor, Gregg, does it all
Gregg is essentially a one-person ‘show’ for everything. He handles the maintenance of the entire property and cooking all the meals. You’ll also find Gregg driving into civilization for supplies and running all the business operations. As you sit sipping your IPA in the rocking chairs on the porch, watching Gregg flying around in all directions, it is both guilt-inducing and exhausting (watching Gregg!). You feel the need to help out, and I’ve offered, but Gregg quickly points out that the guests are paying for the experience and are there to relax. He is passionate about what he does and works his butt off. And it’s not entirely accurate to say he’s a one-person operation. Each time I’ve been there, he usually has one employee helping out, typically part-time.
Ties to LeConte Lodge and conclusion
For many years, Gregg worked at the iconic Mount LeConte Lodge in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. He modeled the Charit Creek Lodge experience after the Mount LeConte Lodge. I’ve been lucky to have stayed at both LeConte Lodge and Charit Creek Lodge now. Though a stay at Mount LeConte should undoubtedly be on anyone’s ‘bucket list,’ in many respects, the Charit Creek Lodge experience surpasses Mount LeConte. I feel the food is better at Charit, the lodging is more comfortable, it’s less crowded, it’s easier to get to, and you have hot showers! Charit Creek Lodge is a magical ‘throwback in time’ experience that everyone should experience at least once in their lives, and I highly recommend it.
