Cowboy on the Pacific Crest Trail
Cowboy on the Pacific Crest Trail – Sierra Nevada, CA
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SEPTEMBER, 2015
I will always look back on my September 2015 Sierra Nevada hike as a ‘game changer’ in many respects. It was the first ‘big’ Western hike I had taken solo. Christian wasn’t with me, and neither were my two faithful trail Labs – Jaden and Bailey. I had done many solo trips previously, but never without my dogs. In addition, no campfires were allowed, which eliminated that potential mental distraction. Despite the challenges and my emotional reservations going into the trip, it turned out to be an epic adventure. A chance meeting on the last day and nearly at the last moment of the hike helped ensure a happy ending to the hike.
The 2015 Sierra Nevada Ansel Adams Wilderness Hike
The 2015 Sierra Nevada hike was a 4-day, 3-night, 20-mile hike starting from the Agnews Meadow Trailhead northwest of the Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort. On the first day, I hiked from the trailhead uphill on the Shadow Creek Trail, past Shadow Lake, to Ediza Lake – my first campsite. I hiked uphill the second day, a very short three miles to Garnet Lake. My second night’s campsite was on the northwest corner of the lake. Thousand Island Lake was my destination and campsite on the third day. On the last (4th) day, I hiked back to the Agnew Meadows Trailhead. Hiking miles were crazy short each day except the last day.
Early arrivals in camp left much time alone with my thoughts
The low miles ensured I arrived in camp exceptionally early each day. A bit before noon for my Garnet Lake camp and as early as 10:30 AM in the case of Thousand Island Lake. That left PLENTY of time to be alone with my thoughts. No other humans to talk to, no dogs to pretend to talk to, and no campfires to provide hours of ‘nature TV’ distraction. I had plenty of solo time during my previous solo hikes, but nothing compared to the pure ‘mental exercise’ of the Sierra hike. It was a personal challenge for me. Fortunately, I was surrounded by the most breathtaking scenery I had ever seen. Walking around checking out the surrounding area, taking pictures, and capturing video filled some of the time. But there was this empty, lonely feeling that came from wanting to share the moment.
It was hard, but it was good
As the days passed, my confidence grew, and the discomfort lessened. I couldn’t say that I ever really felt ‘comfortable,’ and feeling very alone never left me. But I could better appreciate the spectacular setting I was immersed in. It was hard to have all that wonderment bottled up with no one to share it with live. But I recognized that it was a growth opportunity. Not just as a backpacker but as a person. I was comforted by the thought of those that had ventured solo into these mountains before me. The writings of John Muir reflecting on these same views came to mind. I kicked myself for not bringing a copy of Muir’s “My First Summer in the Sierra.” I had a sense of accomplishment on my last night at Thousand Island Lake.
“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.” John Muir
Feeling satisfied on the last morning – heading to the trailhead
I felt at peace when I woke up on the final morning at Thousand Island Lake. It didn’t hurt that the last morning in the Sierra was glorious. Blue skies and sunshine were nothing new for the trip, but the early morning colors on the surrounding mountains looked like a watercolor painting. It was going to be a long day of hiking. I would cover all the miles I had for the three previous days in one day. But where the first three days had all been uphill, my last day would be all downhill… in theory. It didn’t quite work out that way! Walking into the morning sun, I made my way from Thousand Island Lake over to the Pacific Crest Trail. As I got further away from the lake, the winds calmed, and the mirror-smooth surface of the tarns perfectly reflected the scene on the water.
Meeting a cowboy on a horse talking on a cell phone
It was ten miles from my camp at Thousand Island Lake back to the trailhead at Agnew Meadows. I had exclusively gained elevation on the trails during the first three days of hiking. It seemed reasonable to expect it would be downhill all this day to the car. Somehow the first seven miles of the day went uphill. Hmmm… But the trail had been smooth, rock-free, and a gentle grade so I had no complaints. I was questioning logical topography when the trail finally looked like it would start heading down. In the distance, looking into the sun, I saw a pack train approaching. The terrain was steep on both sides of the trail. I had few good options to pass, so I just waited. On the lead horse, a cowboy was talking on his cell phone!
Kent Reeves – Sierra Nevada cowboy
It was a bizarre scene. On the Pacific Crest Trail, out in the middle of nowhere, held up by a cowboy on a cell phone. You can’t make that up! He was on the phone for five minutes and then moved towards me. As the pack train approached, I was looking directly into the sun. It wasn’t easy to get a good look. They got closer, and I saw he was in full-on cowboy gear. The scene could have been out of the 1800s. It was clearly an opportunity for a great picture. A dusty cowboy on a dusty horse on the PCT. His name is Kent Reeves, and he is a fascinating person. You can check out Kent’s Facebook page here. He said I could take his picture if I sent it to him. I did, and I’m honored that Kent still uses that picture in his profile today.
A cowboy’s story
I’ve learned since that first meeting on the trail that Kent is many things. Photographer, poet, writer, pack train driver, and Cowboy Conservationist. This article by Kent is excellent. I found it when I was doing some research for my 2015 Sierra Nevada hike article. I won’t ruin the punchline, but the story is personal, and his writing is powerful. Having had the chance encounter I did with Kent and having learned a little more about him since that time, the article struck a chord with me. When I met him on the PCT, I knew nothing about Kent Reeves. Our conversation was brief that morning. They say: “The trail provides.” It provided me a meeting with Kent. His life and how he has pursued it are what speak to me from the trails I’ve hiked and the magnificent backcountry I’ve witnessed.
Photo by Kent Reeves
