Sierra Nevada Backpacking – September 2015

Ansel Adams Wilderness – Sierra Nevada, CA

The final hike of 2015 was a big one in every way you can measure ‘big.’ Logistically, it was the most challenging backpacking trip I’d attempted. Visually, the Ansel Adams Wilderness in California’s Sierra Nevada would offer epic opportunities for capturing video and taking pictures. But the emotional challenge of the trip would ultimately present my most significant test. A solo hike deep in the Sierra wilderness, without the companionship of Jaden and Bailey or other humans, and without the comforting pleasure of campfires while in camp – alone with only my thoughts for company – would prove a tough mental test.

Long Day of Travel to Mammoth Lakes, California

Flying to Las Vegas rather than California – the best option

I did not doubt that it would be a long, tiring day of travel to get to my pre-hike staging area in Mammoth Lakes, California.  Intuitively, it made sense to fly into either San Francisco or Reno. But either of those options was going to cost more and require a connecting flight and layover. I try to avoid connecting flights on backpacking trips whenever possible because they open up all sorts of potential for disrupted travel plans and lost bags (my backpack, in this case!). Ultimately, I decided to take a direct flight from Indianapolis to Las Vegas and then drive the 300+ miles/6 hours across the desert to Mammoth Lakes. After getting the rental car and leaving the chaos of Las Vegas, the drive was pleasant and uneventful.

Long drive across the desert to Mammoth Lakes

The Plan – Sierra Nevada hike

My plan for the Sierra Nevada hike was to do a 4-day, 3-night, 20-mile hike starting from the Agnews Meadow Trailhead northwest of the Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort. On day #1 I would hike from the trailhead uphill on the Shadow Creek Trail, past Shadow Lake, to the intersection with the John Muir Trail. I would then proceed a short distance on the JMT and take the one-mile out-and-back trail to Ediza Lake. My first campsite would be on the southwest corner of Ediza. On day #2, I’d backtrack to the JMT, then uphill three miles to Garnet Lake. The second camp would be somewhere along the west shore. On the third day, I’d continue on the JMT two miles to Thousand Island Lake for campsite #3, again on the west shore. I’d proceed back to the Agnew Meadows Trailhead the last day on the Pacific Crest Trail.

Sierra Nevada Hike day #1 – to Ediza Lake

Agnew Meadows Trailhead to Shadow Lake

Departure from the Mammoth Lakes hotel was VERY early the first day of hiking, about 5 AM. The permit Ranger informed me that the road to the Agnew Meadows closed to traffic at 7:15 AM each morning. After that time, the only way to reach the trailhead is by a shuttle bus that leaves from Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort. More information on the shuttle is here. Losing a little sleep was more than worth it to avoid the shuttle hassle! The drive to the trailhead was peaceful, with a full moon illuminating the mountains. I arrived before the sun came up, so I slept in the car for a bit. The start of the Sierra Nevada hike was on smooth, flat trail. I connected with the Shadow Creek Trail and started gradually uphill. It was a perfect day for hiking, and the scenery around me was gorgeous.

One mile into the hike, I turned left to continue on the Shadow Creek Trail. The trail emerged from the forest and started steeply uphill on an exposed rock trail. An intensely blue sky dominated the landscape. Pungent smoke smell lingered in the air, but the further uphill I went, the less pronounced it was. From the many viewpoints, I could look back to where I had started and see that the smoke was heavier below. For someone used to hiking in the midwest, this was hiking nirvana! Rock stairs had been carved into the trail in the steepest sections. I marveled at how much effort was required. There was no humidity – the air was dryer than anything I’d ever felt while hiking. An evergreen scent permeated the air, mixed with a faint smoke odor. It was enjoyable hiking. Soon I arrived at Shadow Lake.

Shadow Lake to Ediza Lake – most beautiful lake in the Sierra Nevada

Camping is prohibited on Shadow Lake, but I hadn’t planned on camping there anyway. My objective was Ediza Lake which lay another two miles up the mountain beyond the far shore. I only ran into a few other hikers that entire day – it felt like I had this whole magnificent place to myself. Soon after I passed Shadow Lake I came to the junction with the John Muir Trail. The JMT went uphill toward Garnet Lake. Tomorrow I would come back to that junction and head to Garnet. This day I continued uphill along Shadow Creek toward Ediza Lake. At one point a group of kids in the California Conservation Corps passed me as I was setting up a walk-through video shot. It was fortuitous timing! Everything at that moment was so perfect it felt like I was hiking in heaven.

As is generally the case when you’re hiking up to an alpine lake the trail became steepest just before I reached Ediza. It never got to the point of rock scrambling with legs and arms, but the effort certainly got my heart beating fast. Finally, the trail leveled out and a few steps later I was greeted with my first view of Ediza Lake. The sight quite literally took my breath away.

Enjoying a perfect afternoon at Ediza Lake

Camping is only allowed in the southwest corner of Ediza Lake. An area of evergreen forest sits above the lake there. The land around the lake is primarily devoid of trees, so those trees provide the only shelter around Ediza. It was slow going as I made my way around the lake. Not because the hiking was challenging but due to stopping often to take in the scene. Halfway around the lake, I came to the Iceberg Lake Trail. Iceberg Lake sits at the end of that trail, about one mile uphill from Ediza Lake. It had been a long couple of days of travel stress and hiking. I was tired and decided against doing the extra uphill mile to Iceberg. In hindsight, that was a mistake. I had plenty of time to kill, and now, years later, I wish I’d gone to Iceberg Lake.

Campfires were prohibited in the entire area I was hiking, so I wouldn’t have the distracting entertainment of a campfire’s ‘nature TV’ effect. It left me alone with my thoughts as I explored the area around Ediza Lake and my camp. This solo trip had been a ‘stretch’ for me. I had hiked solo many times previously but always with the soothing company of my two labs, Jaden and Bailey, and always with a campfire. Mentally I was finding it difficult to get comfortable despite the epic scenery surrounding me. I had seen no other people since passing Shadow Lake. But as I explored the area, I found one other tent nearby. It was unoccupied, which seemed strange given my isolated location and lack of other people around. As the afternoon moved towards evening I couldn’t help but wonder where the occupant of the tent was.

Smoragsbord of emotions my first night in the Sierra Nevada

Late Night ‘Flashlight’ Attack

My mind raced as I finally crawled into my tent that night. It had been an eventful first day in the Sierra. Emotions ran the gamut from excited with a sense of accomplishment to scared and lonely. But I was tired and soon fell asleep. At 2 AM, I awoke with a start. Someone was standing over my tent, shining a flashlight down on me! My heart rate instantly went from 45 beats a minute to 200. Combined with my precarious mental state, it was terrifying. I screamed, ‘who’s there?!’ No answer. The flashlight never moved. Eventually, I got my sh#t together enough to poke my head out of the tent. The most intense full moon I had ever seen greeted me! I was still a bit rattled, but relieved.

I wrote a short ‘story’ article about the ‘flashlight attack’ episode. You can find it on my website here.

Sierra Nevada Hike Day #2 – to Garnet Lake

Early morning light show at Ediza Lake

The picture below is called ‘Sunrise at Ediza Lake.’ I took it early in the morning of the second day of the hike, just as the sun was getting ready to come above the rocky peak in the distance. I’ll always remember the colors in the sky that morning. I made a short video covering the ‘making of’ this picture – you can view it here.

Morning views of Ediza Lake and downhill along Shadow Creek

Blue doesn’t adequately describe the color of the sky that morning. Air made dusty dry by years of drought contributed to a sky so blue it looked unnatural. It was like hiking in a dream. Retracing my steps along the shore of Ediza, I looked back to see the mountains perfectly reflected in the lake’s still water. Hiking down Shadow Creek was pleasant, with the calming sound of cascading water as a backdrop to the beautiful scenery. My pace downhill was fast, and I soon returned to the John Muir Trail junction. Turning left I headed uphill toward Garnet Lake. The distance for the day was only five miles, so I was set for a very early arrival. As I ascended the JMT, the sounds of nature ceased abruptly at one point, creating an eerie silence. 

Uphill on the John Muir Trail to Garnet Lake

Making my way down from the summit was a slow process. Every step I took was another ‘photo op,’ and I frequently stopped to capture video and take pictures. The closer I got to Garnet Lake, the better the views became. Mount Ritter and Banner Peak dominated the scene, creating a perfect backdrop. I found it difficult to take my eyes off it as if I were afraid to blink lest the painting-like scene goes ‘poof’ and disappear. Soon I arrived at the lakeshore. There was a path going left (clockwise) around the lake and another going right. Both paths led to campsites, but my pre-trip research indicated that the best sites were on the far side of Garnet Lake, in the counter-clockwise direction. I turned right and headed to the other side.

Searching for a campsite – exploring Garnet Lake

When I first viewed Garnet Lake from the east shore, it wasn’t clear where the campsites would be on the west shore or how I would get to them. The area was steeply sloped and rocky, and no campsite locations were obvious from my viewpoint. When I reached the west shore, I ascended steeply on the JMT for another 0.5 miles before finding a side trail to any campsites. It was steep and rocky terrain. The hiking to find a camp was the toughest I’d done all day. Finding a suitable campsite was exhausting and frustrating. I passed a potential site early but kept going, hoping for something better. Eventually, I went back to that original site. On and around that campsite, I took some of the best pictures I’ve ever taken.

Long, lonely day at Garnet Lake in the Sierra Nevada

I made a short video on the ‘making of’ the picture ‘Camp at Garnet Lake.’ You can view it here.

Sierra Nevada Hike Day #3 – to Thousand Island Lake

Gorgeous Sierra Nevada sunrise at Garnet Lake

By the morning of the third day, I was getting into the ‘rhythm’ of the hike. Feeling more at peace with myself. The bright moon continued to illuminate the tent throughout the night. But unlike my panicked reaction the first night the full moon now served as a comfort to me – like a built-in night light and clock. A rainbow of colors on my tent again woke me early, allowing the capture of stunning pre-sunrise images. Prior to the sun coming up the colors were muted and gave the scene an artist’s perspective. As the sun rose, the first to receive its warming glow were Mount Ritter and Banner Peak. The contrast in color temperature between the warmth on the distant peaks and the coolness in the shadows of my camp was striking.

Just before I was getting ready to start hiking on the third day I made the hike down to the lake to filter some water. The air was still and the lake was as smooth and reflective as a mirror. With the sun’s glow reaching only the twin peaks in the distance it was obvious I was staring at a scene that begged to be captured. Before lifting my Nikon D810 to my eye to capture the still image I set up the video camera on a tripod. I clicked ‘record’ and walked into the scene as if walking into a painting. Even at that moment, I knew I had captured something powerful.

Short and very scenic hike to Thousand Island Lake

The second day of hiking, from Ediza to Garnet Lakes, was short – only five miles. The third day was even shorter. From my camp at Garnet Lake to Thousand Island Lake was only two miles! I had accepted the short days to have more time capturing Ediza, Garnet, and Thousand Island Lakes. It was tough mentally, but it was worth it. From Garnet to Thousand Island was the most scenic section of the entire hike. I often stopped to capture video and stills. The two miles seemed much further, with idyllic Ruby Lake and Emerald Lake along the way. Not knowing how far away from Thousand Island Lake I would have to camp, I tanked up on water at Emerald Lake. Long before noon, I arrived at the shore of Thousand Island Lake.

Exposed, windy camp at Thousand Island Lake

Last Night in the Sierra Nevada

I’d love to say my last night of the Sierra Nevada hike was enjoyed around the campfire partying the night away with fellow backpackers. But that wasn’t to be. Unlike my other solitary camps, the last night, many other people were around. But no fires were allowed, and everyone kept to themselves. The wind never let up, so most people stayed hunkered down in their camps. Entertainment was provided by sitting on a rock near the camp, watching a group along the lakeshore trying to set their tent up in the 20-30MPH wind. I tucked myself into my tree’s shelter as deeply as possible and ate my last dinner of the trip. A strong wind beat my tent all night, making sleep difficult.

Sierra Nevada Hike Day #4 – Back to Agnew Meadows Trailhead

Beautiful Last Morning at Thousand Island Lake

From the John Muir Trail to the Pacific Crest Trail

The landscape between the JMT and the PCT was rocky, rolling, and largely devoid of trees. It felt otherworldly like I was walking on a different planet. Hiking into the sun added to the dreamlike quality of the lighting. The skies were mainly clear, but there was a haze from the smoke of nearby fires. There were no other hikers around, and I had the place to myself and my thoughts. My mood was great. I was on the last stretch of the trail back to the car. Physically the trip and the hike had been a piece of cake – I could have easily done the mileage in two days, perhaps even one long day. But emotionally and mentally, it had been a significant challenge. As I hiked that morning, I knew I had accomplished something important in my backpacking career.

Pacific Crest Trail to Agnew Meadows Trailhead

Cowboy on the Pacific Crest Trail – story behind the picture

Meeting a cowboy on a horse talking on a cell phone

It was about ten miles from my camp at Thousand Island Lake back to Agnew Meadows. Somehow the first seven miles of the day were primarily uphill, even though the entire first three days of the hike were uphill too. Hmmm… But the trail had been smooth, flat, and rock-free all day. The grade, though uphill, was gentle. It was another perfect day – I could get used to hiking in that weather! About when the trail looked like it would finally start heading downhill, I saw a pack train approaching from the other direction. The terrain was pretty steep, and I had few good options to pass, so I just waited. On the lead horse, a cowboy was talking on his cell phone! It was a bizarre scene. On the Pacific Crest Trail, out in the middle of nowhere, held up by a cowboy on a cell phone. 

Kent Reeves – Sierra Nevada cowboy

You can’t make that up! He was on the phone for five minutes and then moved towards me. As the pack train approached, I was looking directly into the sun. It wasn’t easy to get a good look. They got closer, and I saw he was in full-on cowboy gear. The scene could have been out of the 1800s. It was clearly an opportunity for a great picture. A dusty cowboy on a dusty horse on the PCT. His name is Kent Reeves, and he is a fascinating person. You can check out Kent’s Facebook page here. He said I could take his picture if I sent it to him. I did, and I’m honored that Kent still uses that picture in his profile today. I wrote a more detailed article about this chance encounter that you can read here.

A cowboy’s story

Photo by Kent Reeves

Conclusion – Sierra Nevada Backpacking

Much to my pleasure, the trail finally descended to Agnew Meadows. Not long after my fortuitous encounter with Kent Reeves, I reached Agnew Meadows and the car. My Ansel Adams Wilderness hike in the Sierra Nevada of California would prove to be a significant milestone in my young backpacking career and my life. Even though I was already in my 50s, I matured emotionally and ‘grew up’ on that hike. I’ve hiked in some of the most magnificent natural settings on Earth, but nothing has exceeded the scenery I was immersed in on my Ansel Adams Wilderness hike. The images I captured on that hike are among the best I’ve ever taken. Ansel Adams said it best, “Sometimes I do get to places just when God’s ready to have somebody click the shutter.”