Four Pass Loop Backpacking – July 2015

Four Pass Loop Backpacking – Aspen, CO July 2015

JULY, 2015

In July 2015, I joined up with Bob for the 4-day, 30-mile Four Pass Loop hike in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness near Aspen, Colorado. In hindsight, we were crazy to take that hike on the way we did. It was emblematic of my ‘young and dumb’ hiking days in which confidence was high, and experience and fear were low. Boy, I loved those days! There was a feeling we could do anything, and for a while, we did. The Four Pass Loop was the first significant hike I did in 2015, but the year would eventually see me hike two more trails in Colorado and make an epic solo trip in the Sierra Nevada of California.

Background on the Four Pass Loop hike

The Four Pass Loop has been near the top of my list of backpacking destinations since I started backpacking in 2010. I got serious about making it my next trip after completing my 2014 Glacier National Park hike. But I had to wait a long time! My research told me that even July 2015 is too early, depending on the snow depths. In the spring of 2015, I started focusing on the snow depths in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness. A mid-July hike was feasible. Coincidentally, Bob had been getting interested in backpacking, so I invited him along. The Four Pass Loop would be Bob’s 2nd hike after taking a single overnight Indiana trip! That is like going from elementary school to a post-graduate doctoral program in one fell swoop!

Getting to the Maroon Bells Trailhead in Aspen

Both of us were limited on vacation days, so our plan was a bit crazy. Fly out early Friday morning, drive 4 hours from Denver to Aspen, and start hiking as soon as we arrived at the trailhead. Acclimatization and altitude sickness be damned! I had never had any issues with altitude sickness, and Bob never worried about it, so the plan seemed reasonable. The flight was smooth, and getting the rental car was quick. Our excitement was high. We made a stop for canister fuel and another for some touristy-type pictures at Independence Pass. It was only a short time before we were driving through Aspen on our way to the shuttle bus departure site at Aspen Highlands Ski Resort. With big smiles, we took the shuttle bus up to the Maroon Bells Trailhead.

The Plan – Four Pass Loop hike

The Four Pass Loop is a 30-mile ‘lollypop’ hike. There is a 2-mile out-and-back section from the trailhead to the 26-mile loop portion of the hike. The loop can be hiked in either direction, but we decided to hike clockwise. The start of the hike is less severely steep (uphill) if you go clockwise. Based on the number of people we ran into, clockwise is the preferred direction. If you do the hike and decide to go counter-clockwise, realize that your very first climb, the climb up to Buckskin Pass, is going to be long and brutal!

We planned to spend the first night at Crater Lake. That would make for a very short (3-mile) first day, but given all the travel we did and the desire to acclimate to the high altitude as much as possible, it made a lot of sense. Days 2 and 3 would be the tough days. Day 2 would be 11 miles or so and take us over West Maroon Pass and Frigid Air Pass. Camp 2 was planned for a valley after the Fravert Basin. On day three, we would go over Trail Rider Pass and camp near Snowmass Lake. On day four, we would go over Buckskin Pass and then back to the trailhead, hopefully in time to catch the shuttle, drive to Denver and get on our flight back to Indiana.

The Four Pass Loop hike begins – day 1 to Crater Lake

While doing pre-trip research, I saw plenty of pictures of the hike, but nothing prepared me for the real thing. It was like hiking in a painting! The views got better as we hiked uphill from the trailhead toward the two peaks of the Maroon Bells. The trailhead sits at 9,500 feet and is the lowest point on the entire hike. Each of the four passes is at just about 12,500 feet. The Four Pass Loop is a very high-altitude hike with no break from the altitude. We ran into one group that was bailing due to altitude sickness. Quickly arriving at Crater Lake, we got lucky and found campsite #8 open. It was a great site! You have to camp in numbered sites at Crater Lake, and given the crowds of hikers, we were lucky to find a spot.

Four Pass Loop Day #2 – Crater Lake to Fravert Basin Campsite

Crater Lake to West Maroon Pass

The second day started with sunshine and clear, blue skies. Trails were smooth and relatively gently uphill, and the views in all directions were incredible. It was the type of hiking you can only dream of doing when you live in Indiana. Bob had suffered a little mild altitude sickness when we got into camp but felt great on day 2. The trails were crowded with primarily day hikers. At one stream crossing below the pass, we had to wait a while for our ‘turn’ to cross. The trail continued to steepen as we got nearer to West Maroon Pass. Clouds started to get more threatening, and hikers around us began to talk about storms that were moving in. I wasn’t overly concerned, but I did find myself glancing skyward more often as we approached the Pass.

Storms Building Up at West Maroon Pass

We made it to the top of West Maroon Pass, and the view looking over the other side caused our heart rate to spike. Storms were coming and straight in our direction. Areas of very heavy rain were visible. Multiple groups of day hikers that had planned to head to Crested Butte, right where the storms were coming from, decided to call it a day and bail. The crowd of hikers thinned to a few brave souls, Bob and I amongst them! A strong icy wind mixed with ‘thick’ (sleety) rain didn’t lend itself to a long break at the Pass. We took a few pictures, captured some video, and started making our way down West Maroon Pass’s west side. The descent would be short before we would once again begin steeply uphill toward Frigid Air Pass.

West Maroon Pass to Frigid Air Pass

Shortly after starting the descent, the rain started. It was cold! We stopped to put on our rain gear, a task made considerably more difficult due to the strong wind that had arrived with the rain. Thick clouds would move in, making the hiking completely fog-shrouded. But then the clouds parted just as quickly, making for great photo and video opportunities. Thunder rumbled close by, and one of the remaining groups of backpackers decided to bail out towards Crested Butte. Bob and I walked past them and continued the climb to Frigid Air Pass. Our bravado inspired them, and they turned around to continue with us. Frigid Air Pass was cloud-covered, but the clouds parted again as we descended toward Fravert Basin. It was the most surreal setting I’d ever seen!

Frigid Air Pass to Fravert Basin Camp – Rain, Hypothermia, Miserable

The rain barely let up from West Maroon Pass to our camp past the Fravert Basin. Temperatures were in the upper 30s, and a steady wind blew. It was perfect hypothermia weather! Our pace had been slow due to the high-altitude, steep, slippery trails, and miserable weather. For the first time in my short backpacking career, I truly appreciated what quality rain gear could do for you – namely, keep you alive! We made our way across the vast, exposed Fravert Basin. After 11 hours of hiking, we finally descended into the tree-covered valley, marking the beginning of the camping area. Unfortunately, all of the few sites were taken. We finally found (made) a tiny campsite in the last possible spot in the camping area.

Four Pass Loop Day #3 – Fravert Basin Camp to Snowmass Lake

Fravert Basin Camp to Start of Trail Rider Pass – More of the Same

The sun peaked out briefly while we were relaxing in camp that 2nd night, and we made a tiny stick fire. Both of those things brightened our moods immeasurably. But it was raining again when we broke camp on day #3, and the rain wouldn’t let up all day. The day would nearly repeat what we had experienced the afternoon of day #2. Icy rain, cold temperatures, wind, and back and forth between socked in the clouds and having the clouds part briefly. It was miserable hiking weather. But it also made for some of the best photography and video conditions I’ve ever experienced. Tradeoffs! The hiking was easy for the first couple of miles. But then we crossed a river in the rain and began the long, steep climb up to Trail Rider Pass.

Climb to False Summit of Trail Rider Pass

It didn’t take long for the climb to get steep… really steep. Aside from the final stretch of the climb to Frigid Air Pass, it was the steepest trail of the hike. Sections of the trail were in wash-out areas and very muddy from the steady rain. Crab crawling, with hands and legs, was required in a few stretches. It was slow, frustrating, and exhausting. Much of the hiking was entirely in the clouds. Amazingly, a group of trail runners wearing shorts and thin jackets ran past us, chatting as if they were out for a casual stroll. That was humbling and left us all scratching our heads! Soon we reached what we initially thought was the summit, but it proved to be a false summit. The actual climb to Trail Rider Pass was still to come.

False Summit to Trail Rider Pass Proper

After leaving the false summit area, we descended to a saddle area, knowing the whole time that we were giving up altitude that we would have to work for later. We took a short break at the bottom of the descent and then started the steep final ascent up to Trail Rider Pass. By this time, we were all hiking together as one big group – it felt like we were the ‘last survivors!’ The’ photo ops’ were excellent as we went in and out of the clouds. It distracted from the miserable weather and exhaustion from climbing at high altitude. I knew the view from the top of Trail Rider Pass down toward Snowmass Lake was the best view of the entire hike. But with the nearly constant cloud cover, the thought crossed my mind that we would have no views.

Descent from Trail Rider Pass to Snowmass Lake

There were no views when we finally arrived at Trail Rider Pass. But that didn’t last long. We spent about 15 minutes at the Pass, and in that short period, it went from completely socked in to partially open views about five times. I’d never experienced anything like it. When we had them, the views in either direction from the Pass were outstanding. Strong, cold winds at the Pass cut our sightseeing short, and we headed down the other side toward Snowmass Lake. A sleety rain fell intermittently, which persuaded us to keep moving. The clouds would completely enshroud us and then quickly open up again. ‘Dreamlike’ is the best way to describe the hiking conditions.

As we descended toward Snowmass Lake, the rain increased in intensity just as we crossed a gnarly rock field above the lake. At this point, we had planned to start looking for campsites, but the terrain was brutal – nothing but rocks with steep slopes on both sides. It was clear the only campsites would be located around the lake itself. But the rain came down even harder as we neared the lakeshore, as if the heavens were telling us to ‘move on.’ So we did.

Starting ascent to Buckskin Pass – looking for camp #3

It had been another long day, and the rain, cold, and wind had not let up all day. We were cold, wet, tired, and basically done. Serious ‘looking for campsite’ mode. The start of the climb was in the woods with a gentle uphill grade. We passed an impressive beaver dam and pond. There was a group camping next to it, and we stopped by to talk about potential campsite options. They told us they had looked around, and the site they were on was the only place they’d found. So we pressed on up the hill.

After the beaver pond, the trail steepened and ascended a series of switchbacks in terrain that wasn’t ideal for camping. In addition, there was no water to be found. Our moods got dark, and we considered turning around to search for a camp by Snowmass Lake. Ultimately, we kept moving forward by default – we were too tired and spent to make big decisions! The rain picked up again, almost as if Mother Nature was saying, ‘you don’t think it can get worse?!’ When things were at rock bottom, a mini-miracle happened. A hiker going the other direction told us about a campsite not far ahead, with water, right at the edge of the tree line. As they say, ‘the trail provides!’ We found the camp, which was as beautiful as anything we’d ever seen.

Fire in the Sky – last night on the Four Pass Loop

That night proved to be the perfect ending to our hike. With a roaring campfire warming us up for the first time in two days, we relaxed in our ‘miracle’ camp. The rain stopped, and the clouds started to break up just as the sun began to set. Our partner group came up the trail shortly after we arrived. They set up camp in a clearing up the hill from our camp, giving the whole area a party-like vibe. After everything we’d been through over the last two days, we felt like we deserved that type of camp and night. There was a beautiful meadow right next to our camp with a sitting rock in a great view spot. I set up my tripod and sat there, watching the sky for over an hour. The light show was spectacular. John Denver described it best – ‘like fire in the sky.’

Four Pass Loop Day #4 – Buckskin Pass back to the Trailhead

Morning of our 4th day of the Four Pass Loop hike dawned sunny with ‘bluebird’ mountain skies. It was as if that morning and the night before had been Nature’s reward to us for all the suffering endured on days 2 and 3. It was chilly, but the hiking conditions were perfect. The views were amazing as we ascended toward Buckskin Pass. There was a spring in our steps that defied the exhaustion we felt from four days of rough Rocky Mountain hiking. When we arrived at Buckskin Pass, we stopped for a break and to grab some pictures. The views in all directions were incredible. Descending Buckskin Pass, we were glad we weren’t going up that climb – it was STEEP! Our pace was fast. It was only a short time before we arrived back at the Maroon Bells Trailhead. Our hike was done!

Conclusion – Four Pass Loop Backpacking

Looking back on the Four Pass Loop hike, I have mixed emotions. It was one of those hikes that are better in hindsight than when you were hiking it. Despite that, it is still one of my favorite hikes and one of my favorite videos to re-watch. Reflecting on it, I feel similar to how I think about the 2020 Adirondack High Peaks Wilderness hike. A hike that was insane to take on the way we did, a hike I likely never would have done if I knew what it would be like, and a hike I’m incredibly thankful I did. The Four Pass Loop is a bucket-list-worthy hike for any backpacker. But if you decide to take it on, make sure you prepare yourself and realize it’s not for the faint of heart.

David Gray