Best Backcountry Night Ever at Bowman Lake

Bowman Lake Campground, Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is one of the most spectacular places on planet earth. It is not uncommon to have great, even life-changing, experiences there. Some of my best memories from backpacking, and some of the most magnificent scenery I’ve witnessed, occurred at Glacier. But there was one moment that stands out. During my 2018 Glacier National Park hike specific circumstances before and during the trip led to a roller-coaster of emotions. I went from my second night of the hike being one of the coldest and scariest experiences of my life, to the next night at the Bowman Lake backcountry campsite being the best backcountry night I’ve ever had.

My campsite at Bowman Lake – September 2018

Cold night at Boulder Pass before Bowman

One factor that made my night at Bowman Lake so special was the miserable night I had at the Boulder Pass Campground the night before. I’ve written one of my ‘Story’ articles about that experience, which you can read here. I won’t repeat the entire story here, but it was perhaps the coldest night I have ever experienced. Indeed, the coldest while backpacking, but it was also likely the coldest I have ever been in my entire life. There were moments during the darkest period when I wasn’t 100% sure I would live through it. Panic kept creeping in, and it took all of my mental discipline and reliance on backcountry experience to keep shoving the fear down. Only when I put my rain gear on (the last article of clothing I had) and drank boiling water was I confident the night would end ok.

Boulder Pass Trail near the summit with weather moving in

YouTube Video – Cold night at Boulder Pass

From the depths of misery, the situation started to improve

I had survived the night, but the situation still wasn’t great. The temperature was in the low 30s, and it was dark, gloomy, and miserable. One lesson you learn quickly in backpacking is to always keep your ‘camp clothes’ dry – never hike in them. So I had the ‘joy’ of putting on my soaking wet wool base layer before I started hiking. I say ‘wet,’ but that wasn’t accurate – it was frozen solid! Residual hypothermia still had me shaking constantly, so ‘prying’ on that rigid shirt was not pleasant. But once I started hiking, I warmed up enough from the exertion to be somewhat comfortable. Soon I came to the east side of Boulder Pass. The view toward Hole in the Wall and beyond to the Brown Pass valley was otherworldly. Bright spots in the clouds gave hints that the sun might even come out.

View of Hole in the Wall from east side of 3-mile-wide Boulder Pass

Downhill 3500 vertical feet to Bowman Lake Campground

From the peak of 3-mile wide Boulder Pass (7,550 feet) to the Bowman Lake Campground (4,050 feet) is a 3500 vertical foot descent. It’s the mirror image of the climb from Kintla Lake to the Boulder Pass Campground. After descending a short time, I came to the Hole in the Wall campground blue-blaze trail. I looked back up toward where I had come down from, and the entire area was shrouded in dark, foreboding clouds and rain. It looked like I had come straight out of Mordor. But once I reached Hole in the Wall, the sky had bright areas where it looked like the sun would peak out, and in the distance, I could see sun on mountain faces. At Brown Pass, the sun finally found me. It felt heavenly! Brown Pass Campground provided the perfect place to take a break and dry out some gear.

Boulder Pass Trail in sketchy section by Hole in the Wall

YouTube Video – Boulder Pass to Bowman Lake 

Warm, entertained and happy around the fire at Bowman Lake

Things were looking up after Brown Pass. I was on familiar territory – Christian and I had hiked these same trails during our 2014 Glacier hike. Familiar landmarks from that hike combined with sunshine and warmer temperatures gave me a ‘perma-smile’ for the seven miles to Bowman Lake. It got even better once I reached the campground. A group of three couples arrived, just starting on the same hike I had completed. They were hiking in the opposite direction, though. All were friendly, warm, and generous. Bourbon flowed freely, and the campfire was toasty. Jesse pulled out a portable guitar and treated us to two hours of incredible music, ranging from Guns and Roses to Leonard Cohen’s Halleluiah. It was magical. The contrast from what I was going through the 24 hours before at Boulder Pass was mind-blowing. I was warm, entertained, happy, and maybe a little buzzed too! 

Enjoying music around the fire at Bowman Lake Campground

Conclusion – Best backcountry night ever at Bowman Lake

Like a cherry on top of an ice cream sundae, there was one last ‘golden nugget’ to add to the Bowman Lake story. None of us wanted that amazing night to end. Everyone sensed it had been something unique and extraordinary. But finally, Jesse said, ‘no mas.’ We grumbled for a moment, then rose to wander off to our various campsites. The fire was doused, and it instantly became VERY dark. Once I stood, I realized I was way more buzzed than I thought, and, worse, I didn’t know where my camp was! (My site was about 100 meters from the campfire). My little weenie headlamp did little to illuminate the woods. Fortunately, a group I knew was camped next to me started heading down a trail. I followed as if nothing was amiss and found my tent. Halleluiah! It had been the best backcountry night I had ever experienced.

Group picture at Bowman Lake Campground – September 2018

YouTube Video – Epic Night at Bowman Lake Campground