Glacier National Park Backpacking – Sept 2018
Glacier National Park – September 2018
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SEPTEMBER, 2018
My third backpacking trip to Glacier National Park in September 2018 proved to be one of the most mentally challenging ‘adventures’ of my life. It was a solo trip, possibly ill-advised in grizzly country and discouraged by the Glacier National Park Rangers. But I couldn’t get anyone to join me, so it was solo or stay home. My original plans for the trip had already been canceled when I decided at the last moment to ‘re-engage.’ I entered into the journey with the least amount of confidence and mental commitment I had ever had for a significant Western backpacking trip. In the end, it proved to be one of my most important life challenges overcome. It was also one of the best backpacking trips of my life.
Glacier National Park 2018 almost didn’t happen
The 2018 Glacier National Park trip almost didn’t happen. Because of the Howe Ridge Fire burning in the Lake McDonald area, and with the Going to the Sun Road closed, I had effectively canceled the trip. My backup plan was a long-desired hike at Pictured Rocks in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Two factors caused me to revisit and ultimately reinstate my original plan for the Glacier hike. First, the $700 Delta airlines ticket I had was ‘banked’ from my canceled 2017 Glacier trip. That trip was also canceled due to a forest fire – the infamous Sprague Fire). My banked Delta ticket was set to expire worthless in a few weeks. Second, a week before the trip, a snowstorm moved into Glacier National Park and dumped a foot of snow on the area.
Snow mitigated the fires and, more importantly, cleared the air of smoke. Even with the fortuitous snowstorm, I still would have canceled the trip if it hadn’t been for the expiring ticket. Thus, I figured I had little to lose by giving Glacier a shot in 2018. But because of all the last-minute indecision and other tactical gyrations, I entered into the trip with a lack of mental commitment and some serious reservations about what I was getting myself into.
Getting to Glacier National Park
Traveling to Glacier National Park from Indiana is inherently a bit dicey since there are no direct flights to Kalispell. Also, the connections in Minneapolis always have tight timing. Rough weather made it even more ‘interesting’ in 2018. The uncertain travel didn’t help my precarious mental state! But in the end, both flights were on-time, my backpack arrived with me, and getting the rental car went smoothly. Shortly after landing, I was heading over to Apgar in the southwest corner of Glacier to pick up my permit. My first stop was the Glacier National Park Backcountry Permit Office. I watched the backcountry training video (for the 3rd time), received the mandatory briefing from a Ranger, and picked up my permit.
Surreal exploration of Glacier area – Howe Ridge Fire
With the permit now secured, I drove the short distance to Lake McDonald to look at the Howe Ridge Fire. As I passed by Apgar’s main strip, it became apparent that this would be a different type of Glacier experience. Typically bustling Apgar Village was closed down, and the streets, generally crowded with tourists, were empty. It was surreal. But I shook it off, parked the car, and walked to the shore of Lake McDonald. The dock and lake were familiar to me, but the fire burning on the far shore was something new. Helicopters could be seen in the distance dumping water on the fire. I continued my exploration by heading up Polebridge Road to get pictures of the fire from a different angle.
Evergreen Motel – Then (2014) and Now (2018)
The otherworldly feel continued when I checked in at the Evergreen Motel in Coram, Montana. Christian and I stayed at the Evergreen before our 2014 Glacier hike. It treated us well on that occasion. In 2014 we pulled in a little after midnight. Back then, their sign had the word ‘Sorry’ under the name, meaning there was no vacancy. On this 2018 trip, vacancy wasn’t going to be an issue. There was no one there… not even someone to check me in! The plastic face of the Evergreen sign had also blown away, leaving only the metal frame. A piece of paper on the door said to call a phone number if I needed to check-in. I called. The owner was 20 miles away and only came over as required. I was checked in about 45 minutes later. I was the only person at the Evergreen that night!
“Far away in Montana, hidden from view by clustering mountain-peaks, lies an unmapped
northwestern corner – the Crown of the Continent… Here is a land of striking scenery.” – George Bird Grinnell
First day hiking in Glacier National Park, 2018
Complicated logistics to get day #1 of hiking started
The unsettled feeling continued all night, resulting in poor sleep. But it felt great to have the travel portion of the trip behind me. I packed the car after last-minute gear preparations. Everything was as ready as possible, so I headed off for my third backpacking trip in Glacier National Park. I captured the obligatory pre-trip picture by the entrance sign. Then a last stop at Lake McDonald to catch a view of the hazy sunrise. The sun rose directly over the mountains I’d be hiking in to the east. During my exploration day at Glacier yesterday, the air was smoke-free. This first morning of hiking, smoke was heavy. It caused me concern about what conditions would be like in the North Fork area of the Park where I would be hiking. I pushed on to Polebridge for a stop at Polebridge Mercantile and breakfast.
Polebridge Mercantile
Nothing had changed at Polebridge in 2018. As I was eating a bacon, egg, and cheese breakfast sandwich, a worker came out from the kitchen. A tray of Polebridge Mercantile’s famous huckleberry bear claw pastries was in her hands. She had just taken them out of the oven. The aroma was heavenly. It may have been the best thing I’ve ever eaten.
Polebridge Mercantile is a legendary destination for any travelers who make their way to the North Fork area of the Park. The North Fork is the most isolated section of Glacier National Park, sitting only a few miles south of the Canadian border. Polebridge Mercantile is the only source of supplies, food, and lodging in the North Fork. It is a one-stop-shop. Part hotel, part grocery, part bakery, part restaurant, part outfitter, and part hardware store. The first time I stepped foot in Polebridge Mercantile in 2014, I saw a loft above the floor jam-packed with all manner of ‘junk’ (typewriters, kettles, washboards, ice hooks, etc.). The other thing you couldn’t help but notice was the mouth-watering smell of fresh-baked pastries.
The rough road to Kintla Lake Trailhead
After breakfast, I made my way over to the Bowman Lake trailhead. I would end my hike there in a few days. A shuttle ride had been arranged to Kintla Lake, where my hike would begin. Craig, the shuttle driver, was about an hour late. When I learned why all was forgiven. Craig had driven from Many Glacier (the northeast corner of Glacier) to give me the ride. Since the Going to the Sun Road was closed, the drive from Many Glacier to Bowman had taken four hours! On top of that, the road from Bowman to Kintla is notoriously bad. The 17 miles from Bowman to Kintla took us over an hour. Then Craig had 5+ hours to get back to Many Glacier. That was some serious trail magic!
Getting the hiking in Glacier started – to Kintla Lake campground
Craig dropped me off after a teeth-rattling crawl to Kintla. As he pulled away, it started raining. Kintla Lake had a smoky haze hanging heavy over it. The mood was gloomy and foreboding. I experienced a brief ‘moment’ with a feeling of intense loneliness. Once I started hiking, the feeling passed quickly. It simply felt amazing to be hiking in Glacier National Park again.
Gloomy, hilly, lonely hike to Kintla Lake Campground
I remembered the hike Christian, and I did along Bowman Lake on our first day of hiking Glacier in 2014. That hike was eight miles, essentially flat, and relatively easy. I was expecting the seven-mile hike along the shore of Kintla Lake to the Kintla Lake Campground to be similarly easy. That was not the case. The Kintla Lake hike was significantly more strenuous. There were few flat stretches, and most of the hike was like a continuous roller-coaster. Going up 100-200 vertical feet and then back down again. The rain fell intermittently, and the atmosphere was dark and gloomy. The wind also picked up and, combined with temperatures in the low 50s, it was quite chilly. On the bright side, I was pumped up from hiking in Glacier.
Earlier in the hike, I had thoughts of peeling off a layer. But after three miles of hiking, I actually put my Patagonia wind jacket on. The sun came out briefly, which felt glorious. Fall colors of orange, red, and brown covered the forest floor. With the sun shining at rare times, it was emotionally uplifting and beautiful. When I finally reached the Kintla Lake Campground I was cold, tired, and sore. But it felt great to be in camp.
Socializing by the campfire in the Food Preparation Area
One of the comforting things about Glacier National Park is the social aspect of the campgrounds. Specifically the food preparation areas. You can generally rest assured that you won’t be alone. It had been seven miles of cold, gloomy hiking, and I never saw another person. It felt great to have some human companionship and conversation. I warmed up by the fire and prepared my dinner. A group around the fire had been on the same itinerary as me. They ran into bad weather on the climb to Boulder Pass and decided to bail. They were down, and a bit defeated but satisfied they had made a wise decision. Their experience made me wonder what I would face. I would be doing the climb to Boulder Pass tomorrow.
Second day hiking in Glacier National Park, 2018
Cold, gloomy day of hiking to Boulder Pass
The following day the weather was the same – dark, gloomy, and heavy, with the potential for rain. It was colder, with temperatures in the 40s. I had a restless night’s sleep, thinking of what lay ahead for me the next couple of days. Especially the 3500 vertical foot climb from the Kintla Lake Campground to the top of Boulder Pass. That is where my campsite for night #2 would be located. I had some Dunkin Donuts coffee and a cold breakfast, broke down camp, and started hiking.
The first objective for the day was Upper Kintla Lake. There is a campground there that had been my first choice for night one. Staying there, rather than at Kintla Lake Campground, makes the hike up to Boulder Pass shorter and less strenuous. But on this day, I would have hiked five miles when I got to the Upper Kintla. I planned to use the campground for my first break and snack spot. Just after leaving the Kintla Lake Campground, there is a healthy climb up to a flat shelf and burn area that sits between the two lakes. I hiked through a burn area with fall colors everywhere. The first views of the hike up to Boulder Pass appeared in the distance. It was a foreboding view!
Upper Kintla Lake and the start of long climb to Boulder Pass
When I arrived at the shore of Upper Kintla Lake, the weather was spooky. A cold rain began to fall. Dead calm winds made the water on the lake glass smooth. The ominous clouds and reflections in the water made for an unearthly scene. It started raining harder just when I arrived at the far end of the lake. Upper Kintla Campground was there, as well as the start of the climb to Boulder Pass. It was raining and still in the 40s – perfect hypothermia conditions. I decided to put on my fleece layer. The climb to Boulder Pass started right after the campground. It was steadily steep right from the start. The grade ranged from 500 to 1000 vertical feet per mile. Views improved with each foot gained, making it easier to forget the exertion. The first good view of Upper Kintla Lake from the climb was memorable.
Long, cold, lonely climb to Boulder Pass
As the climb progressed the weather in Glacier National Park deteriorated. The temperature dropped, the rain got harder, and then turned to a mixture of ice pellets, sleet, and snow. The views got better too, and shortly I got my first view of the Agassiz Glacier. The setting was spectacular, and as I captured video and still pictures it made me think to myself that these pictures going to make a fine print on my wall that I can view in the warmth and comfort of my family room, if I survive this climb! It was one of those moments when it is best to put the brain in neutral and simply keep putting one foot in front of the other. I’m guessing the people I had met at the Kintla Lake Campground had run into similar conditions, and I could understand why turning around would come to mind.
Arriving at the summit of Boulder Pass climb
I climbed higher and higher in the rain, sleet, ice pellets, and snow. There hadn’t been a single other hiker all day, and I felt pretty alone. More than a little scared, too, frankly. As long as I continued hiking, the body heat from the exertion, combined with the rain gear I now had on, kept me relatively comfortable. But at one point, when I stopped for water, the cold caught up with me, and I started shaking. Yikes… hypothermia! I wanted the top to arrive soon so I could set up camp, get some dry clothes on, and get something hot inside of me. About that time, I ran into another group of hikers coming down.
It’s hard to describe the mental boost a short interaction with other hikers can give you. I wasn’t alone! It had given me an emotional lift that quickened my pace to the summit. Shortly, the trail leveled out, and I came to a rock cairn. I had summited! Just past the cairn, I found the sign marking the side trail to the Boulder Pass Campground. The hardest part of the entire hike was finished, and I had made it to my home for the night. It was, quite literally, all downhill to the car from that point on.
Exposed, cold, and scared – lonely camp at Boulder Pass
Even though I’d made it to camp, it was far from all ‘chuckles and grins.’ The Boulder Pass Campground is cold! There is little shelter, no campfires allowed, and the wind constantly blows straight up and over the pass. The campsite does probably have the best privy view you’ll ever get! That night was, without a doubt, the coldest I have ever experienced. The temperature dropped into the low 20s, and heavy intermittent sleet storms came through. I’ll admit, I was scared, probably more nervous than I’ve ever been. I was hypothermic and had put on all my clothes, including Zpacks rain gear. I finally resorted to drinking boiling water. That worked. I did it three more times that night.
Third day hiking in Glacier National Park, 2018
Surreal landscape from Boulder Pass to Hole in the Wall
It’s hard to describe the hike from Boulder Pass, past Hole in the Wall, over Brown Pass, and down to Bowman Lake. That’s especially true in the conditions I had in 2018. ‘Surreal’ doesn’t do it justice. It was like hiking in a dream or a painting. The conditions were again gloomy, cold, and foreboding, but this day I knew I was hiking downhill all day. I also knew I had a campfire waiting for me at Bowman Lake when I finished.
The view is incredible when you get to the end of the three-mile-wide Boulder Pass. It also leaves you perplexed trying to figure out how to get down to the valley below. Everything looks like sheer cliffs, which no trail could be routed along. But as you get closer, it becomes apparent where the trail goes. At one point, it was carved into a stretch where you would want to avoid falling or stumbling. I kept my eyes glued straight ahead and made it through without incident. The terrain became milder as I approached Brown Pass, and the views were incredible. Like being in a painting. I often stopped to capture images and soak in the view. At Brown Pass, the sun came out. It was almost as if Mother Nature had thrown her best shot at me and, having survived, She decided to give me a much-needed break!
Arrival at Bowman Lake Campground – like an oasis in the desert
In what I can only describe as the greatest emotional low-to-high in my life, the last night of my 2018 hike at the Bowman Lake Campground was the best backcountry night ever. A large group arrived that was just getting started on the same hike I had just done. But they were hiking in the opposite direction. They were all friendly, warm, and generous. The bourbon flowed freely, and the campfire was toasty. Jesse pulled out a portable guitar and treated us to two hours of incredible music, ranging from Guns and Roses to Leonard Cohen’s Halleluiah. It was magical. The contrast from what I was going through the 24 hours before at Boulder Pass was mind-blowing. I was warm, happy, and a little buzzed. Also proud that I made it through the challenges.
Fourth, and last, day hiking in Glacier National Park, 2018
Last morning of the hike at Bowman Lake Campground
I slept well that last night, for the first time in four nights. Thanks to losing 3500 feet of altitude the temperature was a little warmer, I had the comfort of being surrounded by a large group of new friends, and I knew I was only a few hours hiking time from the car, and a successful completion of a challenging hike. The wind was still that morning, and the water on Bowman Lake looked like a mirror. Fog passed slowly along the surface of the water. With the mountains in the distance and low clouds hanging below the peaks, the views were remarkable. I felt content and happy. The Dunkin Donuts coffee and hot Mountain House breakfast that morning were especially satisfying. I packed up and got ready for my last day.
Legendary Bowman Lake Campground Privy – leisurely hike to car
Before starting the hike I made one last visit to the Bowman Lake privy. I mention it because that privy is legendary… legendarily smelly, that is. If you ever use it, you’ll remember it too. I grabbed a video if it in 2014, and took a picture this trip for old times’ sake. It hadn’t changed! The 8 mile hike back to the car was relatively easy and uneventful. It was also fast (just over two hours), probably because I was drawn by the promise of civilization and all that it entails (shower, bed, toilet, real food). Just before getting back to the car a sight caught my eye – a guy on the lake in a kayak was using a colorful umbrella as a sail. Somehow, it seemed like the perfect site to end the trip.
Conclusion – Glacier National Park Hike, 2018
I have been on dozens of backpacking trips, but the 2018 Glacier National Park trip tops the list of most memorable and personally impactful. The hike was indeed an emotional experience in many ways, and I hope my description of the journey conveys that on some level. Like any trip to Glacier, it was also visually stunning, made even more so by the foreboding weather I experienced for most of the hike. There have been few trips that I have taken where I was able to capture, mile after mile, more ‘wall of fame’ (my personal wall of fame) pictures than I did on the 2018 Glacier trip. Glacier National Park is a magical place, and I have been fortunate to have taken three backpacking trips to its magnificent backcountry. I plan to be back in Glacier again.
Selfie on Bowman Lake
