Great Smoky Mountains National Park (TN) Backpacking – July 2017
Great Smoky Mountains National Park – July 2017
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JULY, 2017
Just before the 4th of July holiday in 2017, I again met up with Travis to do my first hike in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. A backpacking trip in the Smokies had been high on my destination list since the beginning. For some reason, I just hadn’t made it happen yet. When Travis suggested the trip, I jumped on it! The original plan was to do a 4-day hike in the Big Creek area in the northeast section of GSMNP. But at the last minute, Travis was able to latch onto a reservation for a night at the legendary LeConte Lodge. We gladly revised our plans one day before departure to make a stay at LeConte Lodge the central focus of the hike.
The trip to Gatlinburg
Dogs aren’t allowed in the backcountry of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. So, sadly, I had to leave Jaden and Bailey at home. They can sense when they aren’t going along. Both have mastered giving me an epic sad look when I head out on a trip without them! The drive down was long (6+ hours) but uneventful. Sunny skies and puffy white clouds gave me the impression we’d have good weather for the trip. I knew better! Clouds and a good chance of rain each day were in the forecast. This was the second trip that I had taken with Travis – our first was to the Dolly Sods in West Virginia earlier in 2017. Travis had many trips in GSMNP and ,I was happy to learn from his experience.
Dinner at Smoky Mountain Brewery – Exploring Gatlinburg
I met up with Travis at the low-budget Microtel Inn and Suites. What that hotel lacks in amenities, it makes up for in location. It’s just a short walk from the central Gatlinburg Strip. On a future trip we found Jack Huffs Motor Lodge, which is now our go-to lodging before Smokies hikes. Travis knew an excellent place for dinner close to the Microtel. We made the short walk down the strip to the Smoky Mountain Brewery after settling into our rooms. Pretzels, cheese dip, and ice-cold beer were perfect pub grub before hiking. After dinner, we explored Gatlinburg’s strip and then hung out at the Ole Smoky Distillery. The rocking chairs and ever-present bluegrass bands at the Ole Smoky never get old!
Plan for the hike
Our plan for the hike was to start at the Alum Cave Trail trailhead and hike uphill five miles to LeConte Lodge for our first night’s stay. On the second day, we would hike on the Boulevard Trail 4.7 miles to the intersection with the Appalachian Trail. Then take the AT south up one mile to a left (east) turn on the Sweat-Heifer Creek Trail. The Sweat-Heifer Trail would head steeply downhill four miles to the Kephart Shelter, where we would spend night #2. On the third day, we’d proceed steeply uphill on the Grassy Branch Trail for three miles to the Dry Sluice Gap Trail. Then three miles on that trail to the Cabin Flats Trail for one mile to Campsite #49. We’d hike five miles to the Smokemont Campground on the last day.
First day hiking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Pre-hike car shuttling – Alum Cave Trail Trailhead
Our first order of business on day #1 was to arrange our cars. The hike was a point-to-point hike, so we had to take one car to the Smokemont Campground. The hike would end there in four days, so parking a car there would be necessary to get back. We dropped off Travis’s truck at Smokemont and piled everything in my 2000 Saab for the drive back over Newfound Gap to the Alum Cave Trailhead, where we would start the hike. After the typical last-minute gear preparations, we were ready to start the five-mile hike up to the LeConte Lodge. It had been raining nonstop as we shuttled the cars around, and there was no sign of it letting up as we started hiking. It looked like it was going to be a cold, wet, gloomy hike.
Group shot at Alum Cave Trailhead
Trailhead to Alum Cave
Hiking in the Smokies always feels like walking in a rainforest. This day was even gloomier than typical, but it didn’t phase us. It was exciting to be hiking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park in ‘classic’ Smokies weather. The first mile on the Alum Cave Trail was gradually uphill alongside Alum Cave Creek. It was beautiful and VERY green. We turned left at Styx Branch, and the trail steepened. In another half mile, the trail left Styx Branch and started uphill in earnest. There were stairs in some of the steepest sections. The weather remained very gloomy, and, unfortunately, at the few view spots we came to, there were no views because we were in the clouds. Fortunately, the rain had mainly held off, so the hiking was pleasant.
Alum Cave
Alum Cave sits at the halfway point on the hike up to LeConte Lodge. I had never seen Alum Cave before, and it is impressive! You only get a sense of the scale of it once you see people standing at the base. They looked tiny. Alum Cave provided perfect shelter from the rain that had started falling, and it was an excellent spot for a rest break. As we enjoyed a snack in the shelter of the Cave, we watched the rain start to fall heavily. There was going to be no staying dry on the rest of the hike. We donned our rain gear and made sure everything was waterproofed. The trail got even steeper, and went through multiple cave-like areas with stairs. The trail hugged the cliffs, and in many places overhanging rock provided welcome shelter from the rain.
Alum Cave to LeConte Lodge
Unfortunately, when we emerged from the woods and caves to the few potential view spots, we found ourselves in the clouds. There were no views to speak of the entire day, which is sad when hiking on a trail known for outstanding views. But we just chalked that up as a reason to come back and hike the trail again. We rarely hike in steady, constant rain, so it was somewhat interesting and not entirely unpleasant (ok, that might be a stretch!). Just before we reached LeConte Lodge, the trail mercifully flattened out and went through a stretch of what I call ‘hobbity woods’ (after the Hobbit series of books and movies). We knew we were getting close. The temperature had turned cold, and we were soaked. The thought of getting inside and someplace dry was very appealing.
First glimpse of LeConte Lodge
After the hobbity woods, we rounded a corner and practically stumbled into a bunch of rustic-looking cabins that emerged out of the fog. This was LeConte Lodge! If we were expecting a luxurious and scenic lodge building like the Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier National Park we would have been disappointed. But we knew what we were getting into, and we were simply happy to have arrived. It was raining steadily, and the entire area was in the clouds when we arrived. It gave the scene a dream-like feel. We weren’t sure where to check in so we walked through the rows of cabins until we came to the largest building in the complex. Inside it was fantastically warm, and there rocking chairs arranged around a large propane heater. I don’t think anything has ever felt so wonderful.
Llama Pack Train – Fortuitous Timing and Rare Photo Op
Once a year, the LeConte Lodge gets the bulk of their supplies delivered using a helicopter. The helicopter delivers all of their non-perishable items. After that, they receive weekly supply deliveries using Llama trains. We were fortunate to arrive just as the Llamas were pulling in. The llama ‘wrangler’ permitted us to mingle with the llamas and grab some selfies. A couple of the llamas had faces that only their mommas could love! They were docile and friendly, especially considering they had about a dozen humans harassing them for photo opportunities. As the llama handler was feeding them, she sang to them the entire time. I also found out the llamas love leftover breakfast biscuits and pancakes! It was fun hanging with them.
Cabin #7 – Introduced to our home for the night
LeConte Lodge is a compound of many separate buildings, most of which are small individual cabins that serve as the ‘rooms’ for guests. The interior of each of the seven smaller cabins has space for a twin-size bunk bed and little space for anything else. It’s about three feet from the door to the bed along the entry wall. The beds were warm and comfortable and topped with a Hudson Bay wool blanket. Each cabin has a chair and small table, a hanging rack for wet clothes, and a welcome propane heater. Light comes from an oil lamp. The warm yellow glow from the oil lamp made me feel like I had traveled back in time. There is a small window along one wall, but it is still dark inside. Especially when rainy and gloomy like during our visit.
Family-style Dinner at LeConte Lodge
Breakfast and dinner are included as part of your stay at LeConte Lodge. Meals are served family-style, and we were assigned a specific seating location. The food was simple, but it was tasty and satisfying. The night we were there, dinner consisted of pot roast, mashed potatoes, and green beans. Half of a peach is served as dessert. I’m sure the green beans and peach were from a can and the mashed potatoes from a dry mix, part of the Lodge’s non-perishable supplies. But after a long day of hiking in the cold and rain, it tasted delicious. The night we were there, one of the servers pulled out a violin and played music for about 20 minutes – it was unexpected and enjoyable. Breakfast the following day was a standard fare of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, biscuits, pancakes, grits, juice, and coffee.
Clouds part for a brief late-night view of Pigeon Forge
Some of the best views in Great Smoky Mountains National Park are seen on the hike up to LeConte Lodge on the Alum Cave Trail. The views from the Lodge itself are every bit as good. That is if you are there when the weather is clear! We were in clouds and steady rain during our hike, and the entire LeConte Lodge stay and had no views. But in one of those miraculous, ‘the trail always provides’ moments, the clouds parted, and the skies cleared just before we were heading off to bed. All the guests walked over to the outside porch of the Office Building to soak up the evening view of the mountains and Pigeon Forge below. The hustle and bustle clearly visible at Pigeon Forge contrasted with the quiet, peaceful setting at the Lodge.
Second day hiking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Getting hike started in the rain – short walk to Mt. LeConte Shelter
The previous night’s clearing skies gave us the hope of hiking in better weather, maybe even some sunshine if we were lucky, but one glance out of the cabin in the morning told us that was not meant to be. Dense clouds and cold rain greeted us. It looked like day #2 would be a repeat of day #1. Immediately after leaving the Lodge complex, we came to the intersection with the famous Boulevard Trail. It runs along ridge tops 5.2 miles from LeConte Lodge to its junction with the Appalachian Trail. Certain spots along the way are known as some of the best views in the Smoky Mountains. Unless the weather improved dramatically, we would have no views this day. A short distance from the Lodge, we came to the closed LeConte Shelter – it was closed due to bear activity.
Boulevard Trail to Appalachian Trail
Just under a mile from LeConte Lodge, we reached the summit of Mount LeConte. Traditionally, there is a large pile of ‘summit stones’ marking a summit. This was one of the largest summit mounds I’ve ever seen, a statement to the popularity of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Boulevard Trail. Early in the hike, it was apparent weather luck would not be on our side. We hiked in dense clouds, fog, and intermittent rain. Visibility was just a few feet in most spots – far from enough to allow for even minimal views of the gorgeous scenery surrounding us. We knew the views were there, but we couldn’t see them. The trail meandered uphill then downhill, then uphill again, but always along the top of the ridge.
Hobbity Woods and (finally) a ridgetop view
Mostly we hiked in open areas, but occasionally we would find ourselves in dense evergreen forest. Definitely ‘hobbity’ woods. The greenness in these areas was overwhelming. Green trees combined with green moss growing on the rocks and trail made it feel like you were immersed in a sea of green. The clouds and fog permeated the trees giving it the appearance of some sort of movie set. You could look to your right and then left and see steep dropoffs on each side. Visibility was only a few feet so we couldn’t see what the terrain looked like beyond the confines of the trail, but we knew we were on a ‘knife edge’ way up high. At one viewpoint the clouds parted briefly and gave us a broader look at the terrain we were hiking in.
A quick hike on the Appalachian Trail
The last half mile of the Boulevard Trail was steeply uphill to the Appalachian Trail, but we finally arrived at the intersection and our first iconic white blaze. We turned right and headed south. This stretch of the AT went from Newfound Gap out to Charlies Bunion. It was a VERY popular day hike. There were crowds of people on our short AT hike to the Sweat Heifer Trail. Passing so many other hikers after not seeing any the entire morning on the Boulevard Trail was a bit overwhelming. But there is something special about the Appalachian Trail, even when only hiking it a short distance. The trail was thankfully flat, and we arrived at the junction with the lightly-traveled Sweat Heifer Trail in twenty minutes.
Sweat Heifer Trail downhill to Kephart Shelter
It was four miles from the start of the Sweat Heifer Trail down to the Kephart Shelter. That would make our total hiking distance for the second day 11 miles, and with all the ups and downs it had been grueling. The weather had improved once we arrived at the Appalachian Trail. Rain had ended, and the trail was no longer engulfed in clouds. It didn’t make much difference regarding views – on the Sweat Heifer Trail we were hiking in a typical Smokies ‘jungle.’ But the improved weather did warm things up considerably. In fact, with the typical Smokies rain forest-level humidity, it felt uncomfortably muggy. That was actually nice after feeling chilled the entire hike thus far. Kephart Prong came into view and soon so to did Kephart Shelter.
Kephart Shelter – 2nd night in Great Smoky Mountains NP
Our night at the Kephart Shelter was as different as possible from the relative luxury we experienced at the LeConte Lodge. But it was equally remarkable. Travis and I arrived at the shelter first. We thought of having it all to ourselves, but that was not to be. Throughout the afternoon, more people began to stroll in. Eventually, there would be nine of us staying at Kephart. Sadly, I can’t remember everyone’s name. A father and son were prepping things for their family to come in the next day. A young couple hiking around the Smokies came in. Two high school kids hiked in for the night from US-441. And there was a solo thru-hiker that had come down off the AT. It was a diverse and entertaining group. Kephart Shelter is an excellent Smokies shelter – large, relatively bright, with a fireplace. We had a great night there.
Bridge over Kephart Prong – Adjacent to Kephart Shelter
Third day hiking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Kephart Shelter to Dry Sluice Gap Trail on the Grassy Branch Trail
As we were hiking down the Sweat Heifer Trail on day #2 it was said often ‘Boy, it would sure stink hiking UP this trail rather than down.’ Well, hiking up the Grassy Branch Trail on day #3 was exactly like it would have been going up Sweat Heifer! The instant we left the shelter the trail went up, and up steeply. And the grade didn’t lessen the entire three miles up to the Dry Sluice Gap Trail. Fortunately, there were switchbacks in the steepest stretches of trail. It was standard ‘Deep Woods Off’ sort of Smokies hiking, with no views and greener-than-green vegetation in all directions. But we were still on a emotional high from our first two nights in Great Smoky Mountain NP so there was no complaining at all.
Group Shot at Kephart Shelter – Before Hiking Day #3
Dry Sluice Gap Trail to Bradley Fork Trail
Once we hit the intersection with the Dry Sluice Gap Trail we started immediately downhill, and again it was steep. The trail was steep enough that you couldn’t walk freely downhill so it slowed our pace. Neither the Grassy Branch or Dry Sluice Gap Trails seemed to get much use. They were muddy in spots and more overgrown than the more traveled trails we’d been on. Again we found ourselves in the dense, very green vegetation that is ubiquitous while hiking in the Smokies. There were no views at all, and very few hikers in that area. We did pass one group that had stayed at campsite #49 which was to be our home that night. They didn’t recommend it. They described it as muddy, dark, and closed in. Hmmm….
Intersection with Cabin Flats Trail – Decision Time
At the intersection with the Cabin Flats Trail, we had a decision to make. Our original plan called for us turning left on the Cabin Flats Trail and heading uphill for one mile to campsite #49 for our last night. But the Civilization Vortex was sucking us in! That, combined with the hiker’s less-than-stellar review of Campsite #49, left us contemplating a change of plans. Spending our last night in the relative luxury of a car campground sounded appealing. It was less than four miles to the Smokemont Campground. The campground was essentially empty when we parked Travis’s truck there before hiking on the first day. We were confident there would be open sites. After some discussion, we decided to bypass campsite #49 and head to Smokemont.
Bradley Fork Trail to Smokemont Campground
Once we made the right turn onto the Bradley Fork Trail, the hiking got much easier. The trail leveled out and hugged the shore of Bradley Fork. It was smooth, oh-so-gently downhill, and very pleasant. Our pace was the fastest of the entire three days of hiking. We crossed over an old railroad bridge that had been converted for hiker use. It was a beautiful setting. In some spots, the canopy came over us from both directions and gave the feeling of hiking in a green tunnel. Nearing Smokemont Campground the trail widened and it felt like we were walking on a road. Day hikers were everywhere. A group on horses came by as we were filtering our last water of the trip on Bradley Fork. We moved aside to let their horses get to the water. Shortly after we arrived at the Smokemont Campground. We were back at Travis’s truck.
Conclusion – Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017 hike
It turned out there were no open campsites at Smokemont. We had forgotten that it was the start of the Fourth of July holiday, and the empty campground we had experienced before starting the hike was now packed. Oh well… The hike was over, regardless. Plan ‘C’ became heading back to Gatlinburg for another fantastic night to finish the trip. Despite the gloomy weather and lack of views, my first hike in Great Smoky Mountains National Park was amazing. Our stay at the LeConte Lodge was a great experience and a bucket-list item I doubted I would ever get to do. Kephart Shelter was wholly different and much more primitive, but also an unforgettable night in a more backcountry sense. The group we spent the night with at Kephart made it so. I wouldn’t change a thing from my first backpacking trip in the Smokies.
Group shot at Kephard Shelter
