Spooky Night at Ediza Lake

Ediza Lake – Ansel Adams Wilderness, CA

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AUGUST, 2015

2015 was an epic year of backpacking for me. The highlight of my hikes that year was my season-ending Ansel Adams Wilderness hike in the Sierra Nevada of California. There were many highlights from that trip, but the greatest was my stay at Ediza Lake on the first night of the trip. It was my first major solo backpacking trip without the dogs or the comfort of a campfire. As a result, I was a bit nervous and uncomfortable going into the first night. As it turned out, the events of that first night didn’t help my twitchy mental state!

First day hiking in the John Muir Wilderness

I arrived early at the Agnew Meadows trailhead. The day promised to be glorious – cloudless, ‘bluebird’ skies, perfect mid-70s temperatures, and zero humidity. Trails were smooth and flat as I passed Agnew Meadows and began hiking uphill towards the intersection with the Shadow Lake Trail. I quickly found that hiking in the Sierra Nevada was magnificent! The sky was bluer, the granite rocks were whiter, and all colors were intensified due to the intense sunshine and crisp, dry air. I felt like I was hiking in heaven. I turned left onto the Shadow Lake trail and soon came to the lakeshore. The hike continued past the lake up a beautiful canyon, with the trail crossing a babbling stream frequently. The trail steepened after passing the John Muir trail, but I soon reached the shore of Ediza Lake.

Campsite at Ediza Lake

Ediza Lake sits at the end of a 2-mile, out-and-back trail that branches off from the JMT. Sort of at the end of a cul-de-sac. I had deliberately chosen the lake for my first night’s campsite because John Muir felt Ediza was the most beautiful lake in the entire Sierra Nevada. One glance at it, and I knew Muir’s assessment was likely spot on. Camping was only allowed along the lake’s far shore, so I made my way around, frequently stopping to soak in the endless views. A short, steep trail along the south shore led to an area with many nice campsites in the trees. There were no other people at Ediza Lake. I was at the ‘end of the road’ and felt like I was the only person on earth. It was a little unsettling.

 “I never beheld a place where beauty was written in plainer characters or where the tender fostering hand of the Great Gardener was more directly visible.” – John Muir

Reflecting on my first day and night in the Sierra Nevada

I had plenty of time to sit and think with my early morning start to the hike. Campfires were prohibited in the area I would be hiking, so I didn’t even have the entertainment of a campfire’s ‘nature TV’ effect. It left me alone with my thoughts. This solo trip had been a ‘stretch’ for me. I had hiked solo many times previously but always with the soothing company of my two labs, Jaden and Bailey, and always with a campfire. Mentally I was finding it difficult to get comfortable despite the epic scenery surrounding me. I spent the time exploring the area and found one other tent nearby. It was unoccupied, which seemed strange given my isolated location and lack of other people around.

Setting the Stage

Camp chores were completed, and I enjoyed a lonely dinner of homemade Pad Thai. The vacant tent bothered me, adding to my unsettled mental state. But as the sun set, I was treated to a glorious light show. The range of colors illuminating the mountains changed constantly. It was spectacular. Just as I was getting ready to settle into my tent for the night, the mystery of the vacant tent was solved. People were approaching from behind me! That was one direction I never expected people to approach from since only steep mountainsides were there. A group of climbers had taken on Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak, and they were coming down. One climber, the occupant of the nearby tent, was injured. I helped him remove his pack and get into his tent. Overall, a surreal end to my first day.

Late night ‘flashlight’ visitor

My mind raced as I crawled into my sleeping bag that night. It had been an eventful first day. Emotions ran the gamut from excited with a sense of accomplishment to scared and lonely. But I was also tired and soon fell asleep. At about 2 a.m., I awoke with a start. Someone was standing over my tent, shining a flashlight down on me! My heart rate instantly went from about 45 beats a minute to 200+. Combined with my already precarious mental state, it was terrifying. I screamed, ‘who’s there?!’ No answer. The flashlight never moved. Eventually, I got my sh#t together enough to poke my head out of the tent. The most intense full moon I had ever seen greeted me!

Conclusion – Spooky night at Ediza Lake

I learned a valuable lesson that night, one that would serve me well on the remaining nights of my Sierra Nevada trip, and long afterward on future solo trips. For the remaining nights on the Sierra hike, the incredibly bright full moon progressing along the translucent roof of my cuben fiber tent would serve as a soothing comfort to me. Like a clock telling me the time all night long. I experienced the same ‘flashlight attack’ effect on many future trips but never again had a similar terrifying experience.

There is a saying, ‘whatever doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.’ Over my many hikes, I’ve learned that saying is quite applicable to backpacking! It is from ‘surviving’ experiences like my Sierra flashlight attack that backpackers gain experience and confidence in the backcountry. They also gain comfort. And that comfort is important because it keeps panic at bay, and panic can be life-threatening, especially when you’re hiking solo. Despite the bizarre first night, I still consider my 2015 Sierra Nevada hike as one of my favorites.
David Gray

I am a ‘content creator’ with a passion for backpacking, creating videos, photography, and writing - with a healthy dose of all things outdoors on the side!