Wind River Range (WY) Backpacking – July 2021
Wind River Range – July 2021
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JULY, 2021
Because of a complete crap-out in the various 2021 permit lotteries, for my ‘big’ western trip of the year we returned to the Wind River Range in Wyoming, where the views are glorious and, most importantly, permits aren’t required. My son, Christian, and I joined up with Carl, Jeremy, and Travis in mid-July 2021 to do a 4-day, 3-night, 30-mile hike out of the Elkhart Park Trailhead. Our plan was to basically do a ‘rerun’ of the Wind River Range hike Carl and I did in 2019, but this time spending an extra night at Island Lake so we could day hike up to the majestic Titcomb Basin on day #3.
Travel to Pinedale
All of my trips out west have generally involved a very early flight to Denver, oh-dark-thirty as I like to say, and this one was no different – departure was schedule for 5:40AM, meaning a 3:30AM wake-up. Ouch! With the flight to Denver followed by a 6-hour+ drive to Pinedale, Wyoming it was certainly setting up to be a very long day of travel. But I was also excited to meet up with everyone in Pinedale, followed by our traditional visits to the Great Outdoor Shop outfitter and Wind River Brewing, and then capping the evening off with our cherished ‘porch time’ at the beloved Log Cabin Motel.
Log Cabin Motel
I met up with Jeremy at the Indianapolis International Airport, and we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise on the (thankfully) on-time flight to Denver. Christian picked us up at the airport and the long drive across Wyoming was actually quite enjoyable with sunny skies, the wide-open spaces that are unique to that part of the country, and bone dry air that was a welcome change from the tropical humidity in Indiana. We met up with Carl and Travis at the Log Cabin and, with the hiking crew now assembled, we enjoyed some much needed relaxation time on the porch of the Log Cabin where discussion of the first night’s ‘real food’ dinner dominated the discussions. We settled on steaks and pan-fried potatoes, and headed to the grocery.
Shopping for steaks for dinner #1 in the Winds
The grocery store was just a short drive from the Log Cabin Motel. We all went to get dinner ingredients and other stuff for the trail. Pre-seasoned steaks and the perfect blend of frozen potatoes were quickly located. With our grocery supplies secured, we headed over to the Great Outdoor Shop.
Great Outdoor Shop
The Great Outdoor Shop outfitter has a great selection of gear you might need for your hike, and the staff there always provides essential information for hikes in the Winds. They are not only friendly and helpful, but they are also the most knowledgeable people around for Winds trail knowledge. They have all spent countless hours on all the trails you’ll be hiking in the Wind River Range. We chatted for a while and stocked up on essential last-minute gear items. Carl was able to locate some ‘Monkey Butt Powder,’ which he thought might prove helpful in combating painful ‘crotch rot’ (a.k.a. chafing).
Wind River Brewing Company and porch time
The walk to the Wind River Brewing restaurant wasn’t a long one… it is right across the street from the Great Ourdoor Shop. The weather was perfect, the beer was cold, the food was good, and the company was outstanding. With the travel portion of the trip behind us, and having had a successful pre-hike night hitting our favorite stops in Pinedale, we were all feeling fine with big smiles on our faces. We headed back to the Log Cabin for some final porch time before bed.
First day hiking in the Wind River Range
Breakfast at the Heart and Soul Cafe
The next morning we completed the final gear detail and loaded the packs into the cars. It was then a short walk to our traditional final Pinedale ‘ritual’ before any Wind River Range hike. Breakfast at the Heart and Soul Cafe. Backpackers have different things that are special to them about hiking trips. For me one of the most cherished treats is a tasty pre-hike breakfast. My standard choice is bacon, eggs, hashbrown potatoes, toast, and coffee. If possible, I get every trip started with that type of breakfast from a local Mom-and-Pop place. It gets the trip started in a proper way and packs me with the calories I’ll need for the first day.
Getting started – Elkhart Park Trailhead and Pole Creek Trail
The drive from Pinedale to the Elkhart Park trailhead was quick, scenic, and all uphill from Pinedale. We were thankful all the elevation gain to the trailhead was provided complements of an internal combustion engine. Carl performed the obligatory pack weigh-ins. All the packs were heavy, loaded with the entire trip’s necessities. Self-registration was done at the trailhead kiosk. We started the hike on the flat, gentle, and slightly uphill Pole Creek Trail. Along the way, we encountered a pack train and asked if we could pile our packs on top. He just chuckled – we were serious!
Photographer’s Point
Three miles into the hike, we came to Photographer’s Point, a must-see location, at least on the outbound hike. A bypass trail allows you to skip the side trail over to Photographer’s Point. The side trail saves a half-mile on the hike out to the various lakes and camping spots on the way to Island Lake. It’s not the most incredible view in the Wind River Range, but it’s worth visiting. We never skip it on the way out. It gives you the first real view of the mountains in the Wind River Range. It’s also a nice rest and snack spot, about halfway to our first night’s camp at Hobbs Lake.
On to Hobbs Lake – our first night’s campsite
The three miles from Photographer’s Point over to Hobbs Lake are memorable. That’s especially true after you make the left turn onto the Seneca Lake Trail about 1.5 miles from Photographer’s Point. The trail goes along the shores of tranquil Barbara Lake. After the lake, you’ll encounter a significant climb. At the top of the climb is a good view. It overlooks the valley you’ll hike through before the final, nasty climb to Hobbs Lake. After the view, it’s a severe downhill to the valley floor. Then a short flat hike along the bottom of the valley and immediately steeply uphill to Hobbs. When that last climb is completed, it’s always a welcome sight to get your first glimpse of Hobbs Lake. ‘Home’ for the first night.
Hobbs Lake – First campsite in the Wind River Range
Hobbs Lake is a beautiful spot and the perfect first night’s campsite for any hike to Island Lake. It sits about halfway out to Island Lake (at 6.5 miles). Hobbs Lake features some nice campsites and has a clean and reliable water source (Hobbs Lake). In 2019 Carl and I were fortunate enough to find an excellent campsite complement of a pack train driver. We returned to the same spot in 2021. It was large, with plenty of flat sites and hammock trees for our entire group. The site also had a rock ledge which provided the perfect sitting and social location.
After a Packit Gourmet Cheddar cheese spread appetizer, we scarfed down the yummy steaks and potatoes. We settled down to some sips of Buffalo Trace, watching the sunset over a meadow and unnamed pond adjacent to our camp. Everyone was a bit tired from the hiking and heavy packs on day one and adjusting to the high altitude. But it had been a fantastic first day. We all looked forward to Island Lake and the Titcomb Basin, our next destination.
Second day hiking in the Wind River Range
Seneca Lake Trail
Our second day on the Seneca Lake Trail just got better and better. The closer we got to Seneca Lake and Island Lake, the better the views. After a steep downhill from Hobbs Lake, the trail passed two unnamed ponds. Then you hit a long, steep ascent next to a pretty creek. The climb up to Seneca is the longest of all the climbs on the hike, and it starts to feel like it’s never going to end. But when you finally reach the top and get the first views of Seneca Lake, you forget about the climb. The location is also the perfect rest and snack spot with large, flat rocks next to the trail.
Seneca Lake to Island Lake
From Seneca Lake to Island Lake is one of the most spectacular 2 miles of trail you’re ever going to hike. It’s comparable to views in the Sierra and Glacier National Park. The last mile is one ‘wow’ moment after another. However, there is a price to pay, the hike past Little Seneca Lake. That climb is up to a saddle that overlooks one of the most beautiful meadow/valleys in the Wind River Range. The area is known as Indian Basin. The climb up from Little Seneca Lake is the steepest climb of the entire hike, but fortunately, it isn’t long. After summiting, with the mountains above Island Lake getting closer with each step, the whole area is a photographer’s paradise. At the end of the valley, there’s one more climb before you are rewarded with the first views of Island Lake.
Searching for a campsite at Island Lake
After absorbing the view and capturing a few more images, we began the search for our campsite for the night. You’ll find many campsites along the shore and up the hill from Island Lake. All along and up from the nearshore. As soon as you reach the summit of the climb, you can turn left and start looking for sites. Yes, there are many campsites, but Island Lake is a top-rated destination. You will likely run into many people occupying those campsites.
This was my second visit to Island Lake. Both times, we had trouble finding a suitable, unoccupied campsite. And since searching for a site at Island Lake invariably involves bushwhacking up and down the hill at 10,500 feet altitude, it is exhausting. We were sure of the location of one suitable site – the site Carl and I used on our 2019 hike. That is where we decided to camp for the night.
First night at Island Lake
We set up camp and hung our food bags. Water was obtained from a stream located next to our camp. The group settled in for some welcome relaxation time, simply taking in the amazing view. Island Lake is one of those places where you have to convince yourself it truly is real, and not a painting. I found it a bit surreal being on the exact campsite Carl and I had used in 2019. But it was perfect for our needs, and it felt really good to be in familiar territory. After a dinner of Packit Gourmet cheese spread and good ‘ol Spam, we grabbed a spot on the sitting rocks to take in the late evening light show. A deer wandered into camp just before bedtime, and provided some entertainment.
Third day hiking in the Wind River Range
Morning views at Island Lake
I’ve found the early mornings at Island Lake to be a magical time. The sun rises over the mountains that sit above the lake and provide an ever-changing colorful light show. It reminded me of some of the pre-sunset mornings I experienced on my 2015 Sierra Nevada hike. Sunrises at Ediza Lake, Garnet Lake, and Thousand Island Lake. Dunkin Donuts coffee helped get the heart beating and provided some much-needed warmth on the inside. I followed that up with a cold breakfast of Honey Bunches of Oats and Nedo. It was comforting knowing that no packing had to be done. We were staying another night at Island Lake. For this day the only load we would carry were day packs.
Day hike to the Titcomb Basin
Our third day of hiking in the Wind River Range would be the highlight of the trip. A pleasant day hike up to the majestic Titcomb Basin. With no packs and knowing our camp was already set up, it led to a delightful and relaxing day. It was only 3.5 miles from our campsite to the Basin, and the trail is a relatively gentle uphill grade. Without packs, it was just a nice pleasant hike across creeks, past lakes, and with wildflowers in abundance.
Like the hike up towards Island Lake, the views get better with each step you take. When you finally come up over the last rise into the Basin proper, it feels as if you have entered an enormous natural amphitheater. We stopped at a beautiful view spot, had lunch, relaxed, and tried to soak it all up. When you live in Indiana, you don’t get to experience places like that, and it takes some time to absorb it all.
Fourth, and final, day hiking in the Wind River Range
Back to the cars – Two days hiking into one
After our experience at the Titcomb Basin, the rest of the trip was a bit anti-climactic. Smiling from a successful trip, we quickly made the hike back to camp. Over a few sips of bourbon, we re-lived what we had experienced the last three days. Our last dinner in the Winds was enjoyable – Spam and pre-cooked bacon. We enjoyed another fantastic sunrise over the mountains with coffee and breakfast the following day. We packed up camp and b-lined the 14 miles straight back to the cars. All the hiking we did in two days on the way out we did in one continuous stretch heading back. Aside from a couple of nasty climbs, it was downhill all the way. Once you hit the Pole Creek Trail, it’s a gentle, downhill, fast hike to the cars.
Redemption from 2019 hike – made it to the Basin
This hike was memorable. When Carl and I hiked in the Wind River Range in 2019, we had planned to get up to the Titcomb Basic. But our plan that year was flawed. We expected to hike out to Island Lake and then up to the Basin on the same day. When we got to camp that day, we weren’t making it up to the Basin. Dehydration and altitude were taking their toll on us. We decided we would leave the Basin for another hike. We never expected to get another chance only two years later, making this hike extra special. It was a bit of redemption for us. Also, sharing it with Christian, Jeremy, and Travis put it over the top on my list of best hikes I’ve done.
Conclusion – Wind River Range, July 2021
I’ve grown to love the Wind River Range, Pinedale, and all the ‘rituals’ we enjoy on these hikes – especially the porch time at the Log Cabin. And with the Winds seemingly being one of the few remaining places that you can hike without a limited-availability permit, it will always find a place on the potential destinations in any given year. This was my third Wind River Range hike, but I’m confident it won’t be my last.
Group shot in the Titcomb Basin
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