Yellowstone National Park Backpacking – June 2019
30
JUNE, 2019
Iconic Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 and our nation’s first national park, was the destination for the fourth hike of the 2019 backpacking season. It is a place I’d dreamed of getting to since I started backpacking. We had a big crew for this hike. Once again getting together with Carl and Travis but also joining up with my son, Christian, and Travis’s friend, Justin. Read more about Yellowstone National Park here.
A few days, and some adventures, getting to Yellowstone
1st day of travel – Indianapolis to Jackson, Wyoming
Our route was a 4-day, 30-mile point-to-point hike around Shoshone Lake in the Old Faithful area of the Park. The highlight of the entire hike would be the Shoshone Geyser Basin on the third day. But before we could start hiking we all had a couple days of travelling in front of us. Everyone flew in from different places. Our plan was to meet up in Jackson, Wyoming. I flew solo into Denver on the convenient and inexpensive early morning non-stop Southwest flight. Christian picked me up right on time at Denver International Airport. Together we made the 8-hour drive across the Great Plains of Wyoming to Jackson. Though the drive across Wyoming is long I never get tired of it. It’s a unique part of our country.
Our first stop in Jackson was the Ranch Inn, an uber-deluxe Mom-and-Pop sort of hotel that Carl lined up for us. It was a bit pricey at $250 for a ‘Tower’ room, but it was perfectly located in the heart of Jackson. The room was huge, luxurious, and immaculately clean. We also had a spacious balcony overlooking the Snow King Mountain ski resort.
Meeting up, Melvin Brewery and dinner in Jackson
We met up in the Melvin Brewery, co-located with the Thai-Me-Up restaurant below the Ranch Inn in central Jackson. Melvin holds a special place in our hearts. It has award-winning IPAs, good food, and is also where we ‘recuperated’ in Alpine, Wyoming, after the mosquito-shortened 2018 Wind River Range trip.
Our group enjoyed a selection of outstanding Melvin IPAs as well as appetizers of Crab Rangoon and springs rolls. Afterward, we headed over to Cutty’s Grill on the southside of Jackson to meet up with Carl’s daughter, Allie (Allie lives in Jackson). Dinner was pizza and more beer – pre-hike carb loading! The pizza was OK, but the company and relaxed atmosphere were great. The perfect way to spend the last night before camping.
The evening ended back at the Ranch Inn with last minute gear preparation and organization. We all enjoyed one more long, hot shower to get us through the next five shower-less days. Christian decided to start early with his ‘getting back to nature’ outdoor sleeping. He moved the rollaway bed to the balcony for his night’s sleep spot.
2nd day of travel – Jackson to Yellowstone’s Madison Campground
A beautiful blue sky and a crisp mountain chill greeted us the next morning. Justin and Travis stayed the previous night in a cabin at Colter Bay Village, 40 miles north of Jackson. Our plan for this day was for Carl, Christian and I to first grab some breakfast in Jackson. We would then drive north to meet up with Justin and Travis at Yellowstone’s Backcountry Permit office in Grant Village. From there we would all drive to the Yellowstone National Park Madison front-country campground. Would enjoy one more night of relative luxury at Madison prior to starting our hike the next day. As I waited for everyone to get up and rolling for the day I decided to do some exploring around the famous square in downtown Jackson. The entrance to the park features a unique Antler Archway constructed completed from shed antlers.
The scenic drive north to Yellowstone
The drive north to Yellowstone National Park was filled with spectacular views as soon as we got out of Jackson. We skirted the eastern edge of the magnificent Teton Range. The fortuitously positioned Snake River Overloop came into view precisely when I was going to pull over to take pictures. Initially, our car was the only one in the parking lot. For a few joyous moments, we had the Overlook entirely to ourselves. It was relaxing, and somehow, not sharing the view with anyone else made it even more powerful. I was in no hurry to have that special moment end. But soon, two packed busloads of tourists and a few other cars pulled in. The solitude from only moments ago seemed like a distant memory.
Yellowstone National Park Backcountry Permit Office
Approaching the Yellowstone National Park south entrance gate, we got our first experience with the ubiquitous Yellowstone traffic jams. It would not be our last! But we were all in great spirits with thoughts of the adventure ahead of us. The snail’s pace of our forward progress simply gave us more time to take in the early Yellowstone views. The cheerful retiree-age Ranger at the Grant Village backcountry office prepared our permit and gave us the required pre-trip briefing. It was humorous, educational, and a little bit chastising (in a fun way). Of all the pre-trip permit briefings I’ve received at backpacking destinations like Glacier and the Sierra, it was by far the most pleasant and enjoyable.
Madison Campground
With our permit in hand, we slowly made our way past Old Faithful Village to the front-country Madison Campground. Madison Campground is at 6800 feet in elevation, 14 miles east of West Yellowstone, and 16 miles north of Old Faithful. Its location in the heart of many popular park attractions makes Madison the most popular Yellowstone National Park campgrounds. After checking in and buying some firewood, we set up camp and enjoyed an ‘adult beverage.’ Once everything settled down, our group took a short 1/4 mile walk to the south side of the campground. Just south of Madison, the Gibbon and Firehole rivers join to form the Madison River. It was a beautiful area, and it felt great to be in Yellowstone National Park finally!
Dinner in West Yellowstone – Slippery Otter Pub
After exploring the Madison River area for a short time, dinner became our priority. The decision was made to head into the city of West Yellowstone for our first meal in Yellowstone. With the backcountry Mountain House meals starting tomorrow morning, some ‘real food’ was an attraction that none of us could resist.
Our ‘last meal’ for this trip was at the Slippery Otter Pub. Travis had eaten there multiple times on previous Yellowstone trips. The food was good, but the craft beer was even better. Also, amid dinner, we were treated to some rather bizarre entertainment. A local theater’s musical troupe came in and sang a song, soliciting people to come over and see the show.
Last Night Before Backpacking – Primordial views at the Madison
A quick thunderstorm rolled in as we returned to the car after dinner. The rain came down just as the car doors closed, and the 14-mile drive back to the campground was wet. The storms cleared out, creating a beautiful sunset when we got back to camp. To end the evening, we again walked to the Madison River area to take in the sights. It was spectacular! Before us was a primordial scene with numerous thermal features generating steam rising out of the river’s edge and the sun setting over rivers. Clear skies also held the promise of what we hoped to experience over the next four days in Yellowstone National Park backcountry.
1st Day of Hiking in Yellowstone National Park – to 8S1
Morning in Madison Campground
A perfect morning greeted us for our first day of backpacking in Yellowstone National Park. We got things started with fresh-brewed Dunkin Donuts coffee and a Mountain House breakfast. Afterward, we felt the call of the Madison! Once again, we made the short walk to the Madison River. Along the way, I found some phone booths, a rare discovery these days. I was stunned that these phones actually worked! Just feet from the phone booths, I came upon a momma Bison and her calf. Whoa! I kept a respectful, safe distance but managed to grab a selfie with the Bison in the background. Between the majestic mountains, Madison River thermal features, and Bison in our campground, I knew we weren’t in Indiana!
To the Delacey Creek Trailhead
Morning chores were completed, last minute gear preparations were finished, and we threw all the packs in the bed of Travis’s truck. The plan was to head back down to Old Faithful Village. There we would drop off the vehicles, except Travis’s truck. Somehow, we would all squeeze into in the truck. The gear would be stowed in the bed. Then we would head over to our starting point at the DeLacy Creek Trailhead. As expected the 16-mile drive south to Old Faithful village was slow. Roads were clogged with tourists visiting the popular attractions in the area – Fountain Paint Pot and Geyser Basins. Along the way we were treated to views of a large Bison herd grazing in a field with the Lower Geyser Basin in the background..
The hike begins from the Delacy Creek Trailhead
Old Faithful Village would do any small sized metropolitan city justice in terms of its amenities, services, and population density. But that is troublesome given it’s location in the heart of our country’s oldest National Park! But on this morning the throngs of tourists hadn’t yet arrived and the parking lots were, thankfully, relatively empty. We executed the necessary vehicle drop off and hiker transfer, and our next destination was the DeLacy Creek Trailhead. If all went well we would be arriving back at Old Faithful, on foot this time, in four days. We grabbed a quick ‘before’ group shot by the trailhead sign. Travis gave us the customary route briefing at the DeLacy Creek Trailhead map.
The hike begins from the Delacy Creek Trailhead – easy start
Our first day of backpacking in Yellowstone National Park was deliberately planned to be relatively easy. A seven mile, basically flat jaunt to the 8S1 campground on southeast corner of Shoshone Lake. The first three miles were actually very easy and pleasant. Generally downhill through evergreen forests before becoming flat as we approached the north shore of Shoshone Lake at the three-mile point. It was a perfect way to get our four-day Yellowstone hike started. Fairly flat, in-and-out through forests and meadows, done at a relaxing pace, and quite beautiful.
Along the east shore of Shoshone Lake to 8S1 – Not so easy anymore!
After a lunch break on the north shore of Shoshone Lake, our ‘easy’ hike became decidedly more difficult. The next mile was along the shore of the lake, but it was 4-inch deep loose gravel. Vegetation was tight against the shore, so there was little choice but to slog through the ‘quicksand’ gravel. The topography in many stretches didn’t help. Steep hills came down to the lake’s edge, forcing us to hike the shore. It was exhausting hiking! About halfway down the shore, we came across a primitive shelter that someone had taken the time to erect. We were tired enough then to be tempted to use the shelter for the night – not really! We pushed on to even tougher trail conditions further south.
Following the flat but ‘fluffy’ hiking along the lake shore, we transitioned to a firmer trail. But it didn’t get easy. The trail became a roller coaster – constant up and down. By Rocky Mountain standards, the terrain was ho-hum. 100′ to 200′ climbs and descents, but it was one right after another. After the frustrating mile of pea gravel on the shore, it was a mental beat-down right before camp.
8S1 Campground – First camp in Yellowstone National Park
The 8S1 campground was home the first night in the backcountry of Yellowstone National Park. 8S1 is located at the southeast corner of Shoshone Lake, in the woods about 100 feet from the shore. It is a beautiful, large campground – at least 100 square meters. Just before 8S1, we tackled the day’s longest climb. After the pea gravel shoreline stretch and the roller coaster hills that followed, that last climb was torture. Our mood brightened quickly when we started the final descent to camp. It felt great getting into camp that first night. We set up camp and enjoyed the first Packit Gourmet Cheese spread of the hike. Relaxing on the shore of Shoshone Lake, listening to the waves, and watching the sunset was relaxing and joyous.
One of the great things about backpacking in Yellowstone National Park is that when you get a permit to a campsite, the entire area is yours. You will not be sharing that little spot of heaven with anyone. Whatever you think about our nation’s backcountry permit system, if you’re lucky enough to get a permit, knowing that one wild spot in Yellowstone is all your’s for the night is a great feeling!
Enjoying the night at 8S1 campground
It was a very relaxing evening spent mostly just ‘chillin’ at the lakeshore. Ankle-deep pea gravel on shore on this occasion proved to make a very comfortable ‘sit pad.’ I’ll never forget the meditative, calming sound of endless small waves gently lapping the shore as we watched the sunset. At one point, the Backcountry Ranger stopped by to chat and check our permit. He told us that he had a cabin a short distance away, and invited us to come over and take a tour. I was left with the impression that his was a lonely outpost, though beautiful.
2nd Day of Hiking in Yellowstone National Park – to 8M2
Perfect morning in Yellowstone – Crossing Lewis Channel
Another perfect day greeted us on our second day of Yellowstone National Park backpacking. The itinerary for this day was a straightforward six-mile hike to the inland 8M2 campground. We would give up the lake views, but we would gain a campfire! 8M2 was one of the few campsites in the area that allowed campfires, and the reason for that was mainly the mosquitos. Lots and lots of mosquitos! (Oh joy). After breakfast, we quickly broke down camp and hit the trail. In a quarter mile, we arrived at our first significant ‘feature’ for the day. The famous waist-deep, ice-cold Lewis River Channel crossing.
Lewis River Channel Crossing, view from south shore
When we first spotted the channel, it was an intimidating sight. At least 300 meters wide, deep, and seemingly impossible to cross on foot. But as the trail approached the Channel shore, it turned left and took us further down to a more manageable crossing point. There the channel was ‘only’ waist deep with a less intimidating current. It also narrowed to a more survivable 50 meters wide. With a quick ‘OK, let’s do this!’ we plunged into the icy water. The caffeine in our morning Dunkin Donuts coffee helped get our hearts started. But the liquid ice that was the Lewis Channel nearly stopped them! If we weren’t wide awake before the crossing, we certainly were afterward. We took a break on the far shore to recover and put our shoes back on.
Up the hill on the CDT after the channel crossing
In the end, the Lewis Channel crossing proved to be more fun than traumatic. As soon as we got back on the trail, it went up and steeply. It was the start of two healthy climbs (250 vertical feet each) we would have on our way to the 8M2 campground. About halfway up the first climb, with the steepest section behind us, we stopped to take in the fantastic views of Shoshone Lake. It gave us a good place, and proper excuse, to catch our breath. We took advantage of the pause and set up the tripod for another group shot. I’ll always remember that spot as a happy moment in time. The stressful travel and pre-hike portions of the trip were behind us. We were free to fully immerse ourselves in backpacking Yellowstone National Park.
On a plateau above Shoshone Lake – great views and no wildlife
At the top of the climb, the trail flattened out onto a plateau. Numerous spots allowed great views of the south shore of Shoshone Lake. Below the plateau was a vast wetland area that appeared to be a perfect habitat for large critters. We spent quite a bit of time scanning that wetland for any signs of wildlife but came up empty. In fact, we realized that in the two days we had spent in the backcountry of Yellowstone National Park, we had seen no wildlife at all. I had high hopes of a Grizzly, Elk, or Bison encounter (preferably from a safe viewing distance), but thus far, I’d been disappointed. It seemed the wildlife preferred hanging out around the front-country tourists. It made sense… they had more food!
8M2 Campground – Second camp in Yellowstone National Park
We enjoyed a short respite from climbing before a sharp descent off the plateau. All too soon, there was another steep climb similar to the first. Then another descent and climb. Hiking on the Continental Divide Trail toward 8M2 started to feel like the roller coaster on Shoshone Lake before 8S1. Two miles before 8M2, the trail finally leveled off through a fragrant lodgepole pine forest. Occasional snow-covered sections were a poignant reminder that winter wasn’t far removed here. We arrived at the 8M2 campground sign. A left turn and short side trail led to the campground area. Again, the campground area was huge, far more extensive even than 8S1. There were an unlimited number of places to set up a tent or a hammock.
Relaxing afternoon of napping and hammocking at 8M2
Moose Creek was about 200 meters beyond camp and slightly downhill. There were really no boundaries to 8M2. It felt like we had the entire landscape for our campsite. Our arrival time at the campsite was again early, allowing plenty of relaxation time in the afternoon. With its tranquilizing background sound, the shore of Moose Creek proved the perfect place to lie down for an afternoon snooze before the dinner festivities started. The skies were clear, and the warmth of the sun felt heavenly. A steady wind blew, but its chilling effect was neutralized when lying on the ground. The Grand Trunk Nano hammock provided plenty of entertainment with various battles trying to wrestle ourselves into it. Staying in the hammock was as hard as getting in it.
Night at 8M2 – sharing our camp with the mosquitoes
When the sun set and the winds died, we had a few guests join us in camp. Quite a bit more than a ‘few!’ The mosquitos came out in force! Fortunately, the smoke from the fire proved to be a decent repellent. All of us wore head nets and had minimally exposed skin. As a result, the mosquitos proved to be a relatively minor nuisance and mainly a topic of conversation. Much of that ‘laid back’ attitude toward the clouds of mosquitoes came from our 2018 Wind River Range backpacking trip. On that trip, the mosquitoes reached biblical plague levels. Nothing I have experienced before or since, including Yellowstone National Park, compares to the 2018 Winds ‘Skeeter-Fest.’
3rd Day of Hiking in Yellowstone National Park – to 8R5
Cold morning at 8M2
The morning sky was once again clear, and, as a result, the night had been a cold one. Smoke from the pleasantly warming campfire rose up through the pines, the rising sun casting a pleasant spotlight-type effect upon the breakfast scene. It was a ‘good to be in the woods’ moment, made even better knowing this day would be the highlight of the trip. The hiking after we left camp was pleasant, with relatively gently undulating terrain and lengthy stretches of snow-covered trail. The snow was a reminder that winters are long and brutal in Yellowstone. As we were doing our pre-hike research a couple of weeks before the trip, we learned a snowstorm hit this area. The deep snow resulted in ‘snow warnings’ for this stretch of the trail.
Hiking along the south shore of Shoshone Lake
At the end of the descent, we came out upon the southern shore of Shoshone Lake. The view on this picture-perfect day was simply magnificent. We used the moment for a short break to allow an opportunity to try to soak it all in. Two days into the backcountry of Yellowstone, the only other person we had seen thus far was the Ranger at the 8S1 camp. It felt as if this incredible place was ours and ours alone. The contrast between the front-country experience in Yellowstone National Park and what you will have in the backcountry is remarkable. It only requires you to walk a few feet away from the trailhead to experience it. I’ve experienced that in other National Parks, but not like Yellowstone.
The Wetlands of Shoshone Lake
The trail followed the shore of the lake for only 1/4 mile (though a very enjoyable flat and easy 1/4 mile!), a short distance that did include one rather scary encounter with some waist-deep+ ‘quicksand’ (a story that I’ll leave as a private memory for our hiking team), before turning inland and entering a vast wetland area.
The wetland was basically an extension of the south shore of Shoshone Lake. I’m guessing that you would only experience the wetland early in the season. At peak snowmelt time or just after. It went on for over a mile, and for its entire length, we walked in ankle to knee-deep water. And it wasn’t warm water! The ‘trail’ was often challenging to find, with no blazes and no discernable track. When we lost the trail, the technique was to keep walking straight until we found it again. At times the view reminded me of troops walking through the rice paddies in Vietnam… minus the M16s and incoming bullets! Eventually, a trail sign marked the end of the wetland and the beginning of the Shoshone Geyser Basin.
Shoshone Geyser Basin
The Shoshone Geyser Basin only stretches for about a mile of trail. But it is a mile that is as unique a backpacking experience as you’ll ever have. I’m sure it’s like coming upon the most popular front-country thermal sites – Grand Prismatic Spring, Old Faithful, etc. – before they were first discovered. You simply never come upon active thermal features like that in the backcountry! If your hike in the Shoshone Geyser Basin is like ours, you’ll walk through completely alone. Without any boardwalks, handrails, or safety signage to keep you away from thermal features that can kill you with one moment of carelessness. It’s like taking a walk back in time… WAY back in time. It was a mind-blowing place to hike.
Arrival at 8R5 campsite – Five-star Hilton
We took our time walking through the Geyser Basin, doing our best to imprint the scene in our memories. But all too soon, it was behind us. Right after the Basin we were again on a regular trail in the woods. A right turn after a lunch break took us onto the North Shore Shoshone Lake trail. Only a hundred meters after turning onto the North Shore Trail, we came upon the intersection with the half-mile access trail to the 8R5 campsite. Anticipation was high as we hiked the last steps to 8R5 because both Travis and the Ranger described it as a ‘5-star Hilton’ site.
8R5 didn’t disappoint! It wasn’t nearly as large as 8S1 or 8M2, but what 8R5 lacked in size, it made up for in location. The campsite sits on a point of land that juts out into Shoshone Lake. It had its own ‘private’ beach, plenty of spots for tents or hammocks, and great views. The beach to the south overlooked the Shoshone Geyser Basin and gave views of the wetland area on the south shore. The cliffs on the east side of the campsite offered fantastic views of Shoshone Lake as well as the Absaroka mountain range. The 8R5 campsite was located in reasonably dense woods, unlike our previous two campsites, which were quite open. If you ever hike in the Shoshone Lake area, plan your hike around a night at the 8R5 campsite.
Pleasant afternoon at the 8R5 campsite
Relaxation and reflection on the amazing day we had just experienced filled the afternoon. The wetland ‘slog’ and Shoshone Geyser Basin were hot topics as we gathered at the beach for ‘happy hour.’ Watching Christian try his hand at fishing (no bites) provided our entertainment. It had been an extraordinary day, and having plenty of time to enjoy 8R5 was a great way to end it. No campfires were allowed, but there were no bugs. Another plus for 8R5. Christian set up the hammock on the camp’s eastern-side lake overlook. He had a great view of the Absaroka Range in the distance to the east. A Bald Eagle flew by with a freshly caught fish in its mouth. That was a sight I’d never seen and a perfect addition to an already magnificent scene.
‘Nature TV’ at 8R5 on our last night in Yellowstone National Park
As the sun set over the south shore of Shoshone Lake, we gathered at the beach to enjoy the awe-inspiring ‘Nature TV’ show. The water of Shoshone Lake was completely still, making for a glorious reflection scene with the few puffy clouds in the sky. Thermal features on the opposite shore generated steam that clung to the ground in the still air. It was a view, and a special moment in time, that none of us will ever forget. Our last day backpacking was one of the most unique experiences we had ever had. That last night at the 8R5 ‘Five-Star Hilton’ added the perfect ending to our Yellowstone National Park hike.
4th Day of Hiking in Yellowstone NP – to Old Faithful
Last day of hiking begins – Gentle grades on the CDT
There was noticeably more bounce in our step as we broke camp on our last day. That was good since, at ten trail miles, it would be our longest day of hiking. But there is always extra exuberance on the last day of a trip. The trail was gentle, and the miles passed quickly. We came upon an area of active geothermal features as we approached the Firehole River. It served as a reminder we were walking on an active volcano! We were only three miles from the car and didn’t want our hike to be over. We stopped for a short break at the bridge over the river. And one final group picture. Not far past the Firehole, we started coming upon groups of day hikers. That was a sure sign we were approaching the Old Faithful village area.
Noise of tourists lets us know we’re nearing Old Faithful
The volume of people and traffic noise increased with every step closer to Old Faithful. It was a sharp reminder of the contrast between the Yellowstone front-country and back-country experiences. Our four days of hard-earned back-country ‘grunge’ made us stand out amongst the throngs of squeaky-clean tourists. I did my post-trip video wrap-up segment amidst the cars in the packed parking lot. With that final video task completed, our Yellowstone National Park hike was finished.
Conclusion – Yellowstone National Park Backpacking, 2019
Yellowstone National Park doesn’t have the type of spectacular mountain views that you find in Glacier, Colorado, the Winds, or the Sierra. Nonetheless, I found that it had a unique ‘wild’ feel and beauty to it. Ultimately, we didn’t end up running into any ‘large animals.’ That was a disappointment to me, but some on the hike were quite happy about it! Even without a grizzly or bison encounter, we were constantly aware that we weren’t at the top of the ‘food chain.’ As humans being ‘prey’ is an unsettling and unusual feeling. The Shoshone Geyser Basin and other thermal features were a constant reminder that Yellowstone National Park is a unique and special place to backpack. Yellowstone National Park 2019… it was a great hike!
“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.” – John Muir
